300/221 on the way

[travelingman]

A little help guys. I have ordered a complete upper from Randall at AR15barrels.com and a complete lower from my local dealer. I now need to purchase components to load for this toy when it arrives. I need to find dies for the 300/221fireball, any ideas on where to pick these up. Any suggestions will be appreciated. I will post an update when all parts arrive and the bullets go down range.
travelingman :)

[jripper]

Midway has dies, usually on hand. They also carry the heavy Sierra bullets for the sub-sonic loads.

Sportmansguide has the best prices on Corbon load ammo I could find.

Joel

[TORSTEIN]

Midway is a good place to buy.
Redding is a good buy. You only need the 2-die set. The 3-die set also include neck sizer die. You really dont need this, as you "go semi auto".
Full length sizer is ok. If you only reload from 221 fireball brass use this kit. If you plan to make 300whisper out of 223 brass, you may also use this kit without the expander stem. But you will run into a problem involving cutting the case to spec. The easy way is to buy the Redding form&trim die. With this unit you will be able to form 223 brass.
With case in form&trim die, saw and file trim the case to spec.(camfer the case inside and out.) Run into full length sizer die, trim to length and you are done.
Most chamber is "a little large" at the neck.
Formed 223 cases will be ticker in the neck & possible give you better
"group at the target".
Load a bullet into the case. Measure (micrometer) the neck. Fire the case and measure again. Difference=clearance.
Fired cases will be a little smaller than the chamber, but it is in the "0.000class", so dont worry.
Some rifles have 0.007"-0.013" clearance.
Less is better. 0.002"-0.003" is good in semi`s.
Do this with 221fb/300w cases first, then 223/300w.

If you go the 223 route, purchase a box of 221 fireball brass.
Use full length sizer die and run 221fb into it. Do not set back the shoulder! Load & shoot. Take the empty. "Coat" case at shoulder & neck using a candle light.(With this I mean holding the case over a burning light to get it sooty.) Lube case body only. Run the 221fb/300w case into form&trim die.(Run some lubed cases first) Adjust until you touch the shoulder(bright ring in coat). Back of the die 1/8 turn.
Make your 300w out of 223 brass.

Run same 221fb/300w case as you used in the form&trim die!!!(new coat) into full length sizer die.
Adjust until touching choulder!
Use your formed 223 brass, and F.L. size.
Trim and chamfer.
When this cases is fired and it is time to reload. Coat one of the cases and run into F.L. die until it touch the shoulder. Back the die out 1/8 turn and reload. I believe this makes "a perfect shot in the arm."

If somebody need to know how to measure case overall length compare to your chamber, cartridge headspase in your gun(base to shoulder), or cartridge overall length.
Please post request. This is done without buying special tools.

[Buckshot]

My new method of case forming from .223 brass is as follows.
Get a workmate and clamp the shelcase CAREFULLY.
Use a Dremel tool to cut off the neck and shoulder.
Release the case and debur it.
Next put it into the trimmer to make it nicely straight.
Debur again.
Next lubricate the case and form it in the die to put on the new shoulder.
Now trim it for the last time and debur it.
Last but not least, since I am using military brass, I swage out the crimps on the pockets with a Dillon Super Swage 600.

Originally Posted by TORSTEIN

Midway is a good place to buy.
Redding is a good buy. You only need the 2-die set. The 3-die set also include neck sizer die. You really dont need this, as you "go semi auto".
Full length sizer is ok. If you only reload from 221 fireball brass use this kit. If you plan to make 300whisper out of 223 brass, you may also use this kit without the expander stem. But you will run into a problem involving cutting the case to spec. The easy way is to buy the Redding form&trim die. With this unit you will be able to form 223 brass.
With case in form&trim die, saw and file trim the case to spec.(camfer the case inside and out.) Run into full length sizer die, trim to length and you are done.
Most chamber is "a little large" at the neck.
Formed 223 cases will be ticker in the neck & possible give you better
"group at the target".
Load a bullet into the case. Measure (micrometer) the neck. Fire the case and measure again. Difference=clearance.
Fired cases will be a little smaller than the chamber, but it is in the "0.000class", so dont worry.
Some rifles have 0.007"-0.013" clearance.
Less is better. 0.002"-0.003" is good in semi`s.
Do this with 221fb/300w cases first, then 223/300w.

If you go the 223 route, purchase a box of 221 fireball brass.
Use full length sizer die and run 221fb into it. Do not set back the shoulder! Load & shoot. Take the empty. "Coat" case at shoulder & neck using a candle light.(With this I mean holding the case over a burning light to get it sooty.) Lube case body only. Run the 221fb/300w case into form&trim die.(Run some lubed cases first) Adjust until you touch the shoulder(bright ring in coat). Back of the die 1/8 turn.
Make your 300w out of 223 brass.

Run same 221fb/300w case as you used in the form&trim die!!!(new coat) into full length sizer die.
Adjust until touching choulder!
Use your formed 223 brass, and F.L. size.
Trim and chamfer.
When this cases is fired and it is time to reload. Coat one of the cases and run into F.L. die until it touch the shoulder. Back the die out 1/8 turn and reload. I believe this makes "a perfect shot in the arm."

If somebody need to know how to measure case overall length compare to your chamber, cartridge headspase in your gun(base to shoulder), or cartridge overall length.
Please post request. This is done without buying special tools.