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As WF stated, retorqueing the barrel to its original position will return it to its original headspace as long as you don't twist the receiver or do other damage. I fit and remove the barrels on all sorts of guns in order to ream the chamber to fit the receiver/bolt combo. Sometimes it takes a few fittings to get it perfect. I normally put a line up mark on the barrel and receiver once I get the headspace set. I can then remove the barrel to do whatever suppressor work, threading or receiver work I need to do. Lining up the marks puts it back where it started and its good to go.
In addition to what WF said, if you remove the trigger group from the receiver the whole thing should fit in a 4 jaw chuck quite readily. You can chuck the receiver up and indicate the barrel in to make sure its centered. Its pretty easy to see if the barrel is straight by turning the lathe on at low speed and looking down the bore. Wobbles or off center running are pretty easy to see by eye over the length of the barrel. Cut the muzzle threads with the muzzle on a live center. 3 jaw chucks are no good for tight tolerance barrel work.....
Hope that helps
Frank
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Threaded Mode