Need to purchase everything for reloading...

[too_many_hobbies]

I ordered a Dillon RL550B, Redding Die Set 80432, and a whole bunch of other items that my wife refers to as "more junk ". One of my friends gave me a metal table on which to mount everything. I am in the process of painting the table Dillon Blue . My brother-in-law gave me an electronic scale that measures to the .001 gram, .015 grain. I will be ordering preformed brass from Keith_Davis.

Do I need the following Stoney Point Chamber-All OAL Guage?
http://www.outdoorsuperstore.com/pro...DALL+OAL+GAUGE

Will the special .223 cases that you order separately for the Chamber-ALL work for this application? Do I need the Stoney Point bullet comparitor?

I need to order some bullets. I called Sierra and got the overall length of their HPBT Match King 220 grain as 1.485" and the 240 grain as 1.595". My 1 to 8 twist barrel will supposedly stabilize even the 240 grain according to this link:
http://www.mountainmolds.com/helpGreenhill.htm

Any comments regarding the 220 vs. 240 grain Sierra Match Kings? It seems most are using the 220 grain. Does the 240 grain bring about reloading, magazine, or accuracy problems that I am not aware of?

Please continue to help me out here, I don't want to end up with $1000 worth of "more junk" that I never get pieced together to use (don't want to give my wife an excuse to make another cutting comment ).

[prebancolt]

Originally Posted by too_many_hobbies

I ordered a Dillon RL550B, Redding Die Set 80432, and a whole bunch of other items that my wife refers to as "more junk ". One of my friends gave me a metal table on which to mount everything. I am in the process of painting the table Dillon Blue . My brother-in-law gave me an electronic scale that measures to the .001 gram, .015 grain. I will be ordering preformed brass from Keith_Davis.

"You have chosen wisely." I haven't ordered any brass from Keith_Davis, but I hear it is top notch. I have, however tried to make my own brass, and it's almost not worth the time. If I need any more brass, I'll order mine from Keith.

Do I need the following Stoney Point Chamber-All OAL Guage?
http://www.outdoorsuperstore.com/pro...DALL+OAL+GAUGE

I just measure the OAL of the finished rounds. Another way is to check them in a mag that you will be using. This is one measurement that limits the OAL of the round.

Will the special .223 cases that you order separately for the Chamber-ALL work for this application? Do I need the Stoney Point bullet comparitor?

I need to order some bullets. I called Sierra and got the overall length of their HPBT Match King 220 grain as 1.485" and the 240 grain as 1.595". My 1 to 8 twist barrel will supposedly stabilize even the 240 grain according to this link:
http://www.mountainmolds.com/helpGreenhill.htm

Any comments regarding the 220 vs. 240 grain Sierra Match Kings? It seems most are using the 220 grain. Does the 240 grain bring about reloading, magazine, or accuracy problems that I am not aware of?

One isn't any harder to load than the other. Someone speak up, but I think the 240's might be just a little harder to locate. I've seen a lot more 220 grain bullets on the shelf than I have 240 grain.

Please continue to help me out here, I don't want to end up with $1000 worth of "more junk" that I never get pieced together to use (don't want to give my wife an excuse to make another cutting comment ).

If you really want to appreciate and REALLY use your new toy, go get the dies for 9mm, 40S&W, or 45acp. Your wife will be begging you to quit playing with that "junk" and come in the house. Ask me how I know.

J

[dflicker]

MidwayUSA has a limited supply in stock.

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=621591

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=557247

[too_many_hobbies]

Everything for reloading is scheduled for delivery tomorrow except for bullets, powder, and primers. I have been approaching this by researching one reloading step at a time and now I am researching powders and primers. I will be near a Sportsman's Warehouse tomorrow and would like to pick up some powder and primers so I can practice pulling the handle on my new press.

For powder, it appears that I need to be using Vihtavuori N110, IMR 4227, Hodgdon H110, or Accurate No. 9 or 1680. Please respond with what powder you use for subsonic 220 and/or 240 grain bullets.

I have read so much now that all the information is starting to run together. I am getting confused about what is recommended for .308 subsonic as opposed to 300 Fireball subsonic. I remember reading where someone recommended always using magnum rifle primers for .308 subsonics. What do you use for 300 Fireball? Please respond with actual part numbers, if you have that information handy, to help me locate the correct primers in the store.

As always, thanks in advance,

way_too_many_hobbies

[320pf]

too_many_hobbies

Go to this the following website and check out the subsonic data listed for Accurate Arms Powders.

http://www.accuratepowder.com/data/P...0page%2076.pdf

There are two other sources of reloading data. The most recent volumes of the Sierra and Hornady reloading manuals. I gave both Sierra and Hornaday a call and they send me the relative pages of their porspective reloading manuals.


Here are the loads that I have developed. I have shot all of the loads listed under "Not yet verified user loads" except load numbers 3299, 2973 and 2974. SPMORGAN on this site has developed loads 2973 and 2974.

http://reloadersnest.com/frontpage.asp?CaliberID=135

Another good source 300-221 fireball a.k.a 300 whisper (r) loads can be found in the reloading manuals under the 357 magnum, expeciallly the loads listed for the TC or rifles. The powder capacity for the 357 magnum is very similar to the 300-221 fireball except that the 300-221 fireball can run at significantly higher pressures 52000 verus 45000 cup, respectively. But I would only stick to powders with similar burn rates as W296, H110, IMR4227, H4227, RE7, AA#9, 2400, V110, and AA1680 (sorry if I left someone favorite powder out... if so jump in here.... thank you)


Good luck and have fun


320pf

[too_many_hobbies]

I ended up with an AR-15 custom upper with Olympic Arms 16" barrel in 1 to 8 twist that I should have in a couple of weeks. As soon as I measure for correct OAL, I am going to load my subsonic test rounds with 9.2 grains of H110, Federal 205 primers, and Sierra 240 grain Match Kings.

Now, to plan for the next step...

I plan to test fire a few rounds before placing the sound suppressor on the barrel, checking for a stuck bullet each shot. How do I check for stabilization of the 240 grain bullet? Should I perform a specific test before placing the sound suppressor on the barrel to avoid a baffle strike?

[Artful]

Originally Posted by too_many_hobbies

I ended up with an AR-15 custom upper with Olympic Arms 16" barrel in 1 to 8 twist that I should have in a couple of weeks. As soon as I measure for correct OAL, I am going to load my subsonic test rounds with 9.2 grains of H110, Federal 205 primers, and Sierra 240 grain Match Kings.

Now, to plan for the next step...

I plan to test fire a few rounds before placing the sound suppressor on the barrel, checking for a stuck bullet each shot. How do I check for stabilization of the 240 grain bullet? Should I perform a specific test before placing the sound suppressor on the barrel to avoid a baffle strike?

Actually you'll want to start with more than a specific load for several reasons, starting above the speed of sound and lowering the powder charge until you get to about 1000 fps (under the speed of sound) is safest so that you don't stick a bullet in the barrel -

to test for stability of the bullet put a cardboard box up close 10 -15 feet and at 100 yards - shooting thru them should leave nice round holes in the cardboard - if you have oblong holes your bullet is tipping and unstable.

After your bullet is verified stable then mount your suppressor and look thru the barrel to make sure you don't see any part of the can in the way of the barrel and do the look in the other direction. (if you look thru the can and center the chamber end in the center of the suppressor exit hole, it should all be concentric - circles within circles).

[Mousehouse]

I didn't read all of this topic so I hope I don't go over something that has already been discussed.

Since you are new to reloading I would get a single stage press and all of the accessories to go with it. Once you get use to loading I would then step up to the progressive loaders if you so desire. I use a progressive when I load my 9mm but still use my single stage press for everything else.

I like to do my loading in stages. I clean the brass first, then size and deprime. Once that is done I like to clean them again. When I get time to get back to the loading bench I prime everything I have ready. Then I sort the brass and store them in boxes or plastic bins with lids. When I get ready to load all I have to do is set up the powder measure with whatever powder I want to use and start loading. I like doing it this way and usually do all of my loading during the winter months. Unless I have a special round I am working on.

[gary0529]

If you want 300 Whisper brass already formed go here-http://www.coyoteguns.com/once_fire_brass.htm.
Great quality and fair pricing and fast delivery.
I also form my own from 223 brass and aside from losing around 15% due to neck splitting they work fine. This may be a bit more than a really raw newbie may wish to do as you may have to check neck wall thickness and trim for lenght-things a really inexperienced newcomer may not yet have the skill sets to do.
Hope it helps and enjoy the new hobby.

Gary