Quarterbore & Gentlemen, it CAN be done in a Stag and VERY SIMPLY.
Here is the RLL, after I fit the lower for it. Look where the receiver narrows, in the area above the selector lever. The link would have to penetrate that bottleneck to move rearwards.
The RLL fit on the floor, but the 'swell' butted against the bottleneck, allowing no rear travel. So I opened up the sides (channel about 1/8" high) LEVEL/FLUSH WITH THE FLOOR. This allows it to move rearwards, into the cut channel. If you look closely (above) the link is already back into the channel - while still in it's FORWARD-MOST position
Here's another one from a different angle, showing the same thing
This pic shows the 'channel cut', or area I removed. It's aluminum and cuts very easily. Don't rush, and you'll still be done in 15 minutes. Good lighting is essential.
Here's another shot of the same thing - the left side was easier to photograph. The channel cut on the right side is exactly the same as on the left
Important - Round off the FRONT of the channel cuts so the link doesn't catch on the front of the shelf. Mine hung up until I rounded off the LOWER FRONT CORNERS, and buffed them with an abrasive dremmel wheel. Like block-sanding a corner of wood. Used a magic marker, later, to mask the shiney cut areas.
Here's my budget baby -
$89 Stag Lower, cheap TAPCO 4 position stock, and a 7" DPMS Kittykat with removable everything. No need to spend $$$ on an SP1. $6,400 for the RRL a while back, and a very good buy. She RUNS EVERYTIME; a real flame-thrower too, with the 7" barrel. Hope to attempt the select-fire mod soon. I enjoy doing constuctive things, that keep me out of trouble
The F4 on the RLL cleared 6 months ago, but have been on the road; this Holiday vacation was my first opportunity to tinker with it. The old addage that you either have the money, OR the time, but never both at once. I'm using a thin paddle (attempting to keep the ROF slow) and haven't tried a thick one yet. I have plenty of Macs, HK's, Reisings etc. for fast fun. I never installed a RLL before, so if I can do it, you can too
Steve in EL Paso
PS I had to grind about 1/32" off the top of the paddle so the carrier wouldn't scrape / hang up, and dremmeled the floor behind the selector about 1/8" deeper (I don't own a mill) to clear the bottom of the paddle. Hope to post a vid soon
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