RDIAS timing?

[Typhoon]

I've read your timing a RDIAS on more than a couple dozen occasions and i still don't understand it.

Where do you stick the "drill shanks"?
Is .02 of an inch that big of a difference?

Any pictures of timing an RDIAS???


I don't see why you need to time a RDIAS as long as its solid and it works, but then again maybe im just being dumb... Don't RDIAS's come with "wiggle" space where it engages the lug?

thanks...

[Quarterbore]

There shouldn't be any "wiggle" with the DIAS and if you look at an M-16 with the GI sear and the location of the GI sear that is critical for the function of the M-16 as well.

You stick the timing gauge in the ejection port I believe believe...

I don't have any photos to share as I don't have a DIAS or M-16 that I could show you with and frankly the advise on that page came from other people as well (RE http://quarterbore.com/nfa/dias.html).

I see now that there are no credits on that page... I believe that is because the preson that provided it didn't want credit...

Anyways, I am not sure why this sounds confusing and if I get a chance I might be able to show you how to do this using my rLL as I assume the LL should time about the same...

Anybody else have any advise on this?

[3 weelin geezer]

Timing that thing is so that the bolt ends up being locked when the hammer hits the firing pin. .02 would make a difference being that it would fire too early and the lugs wouldn't be fully supported which is like having smaller lugs or made out of inferior material that would give under pressure.

[STR1K3_4CE]

I can comment on this...

it is pretty simple really. this is what you do...
you will need a feeler gauge (wire gauge) with a .083 wire. I would assume that this gap is the standard timing of an M16 with an auto sear. However you can make slight adjustments to that gap depending on how much faster or slower you prefer your rate of fire (I used a .078 with mine because I like it a little slower).

Put your RDIAS into your receiver as far back as it goes and shim the gap up between your rear lug so that it closes securely with no freeplay.

Then you stick your feeler gauge in the ejection port and close the bolt slowly until it pinches the wire. At some point before the bolt contacts the wire, the sear should have been tripped. Depending on how far you were from the wire when it was tripped should give you a good idea of how many shims you need to move, but to be accurate you can just do one at a time.

Open it back up and move one shim from between the gap in the lug to behind the RDIAS. when you close it up, the snug fit should be the same as before, but the RDIAS is now moved forward in the receiver by the width of one of your shims.

Recheck the timing again with the feeler gauge and repeat this process until you have moved enough shims behind the RDIAS to the point where the bolt is .083 out of battery, but the sear has not tripped.

It is important to note that at this point, you are NOT holding the bolt open with the feeler gauge. you should be able to remove the wire after the bolt has closed down on it and the bolt should still stay open .083 because it is barely being held by the sear trip. (You want to get to the point where the sear will hold it back at .083, but trip the disconnector at .082)

Once you have that accomplished, then pull back and release the bolt full speed and it should then close completely and trip the sear exactly where you wanted it to.

Hope that makes more sense.