Dillon form and trim die for 300 fireball using RT1200

[TCCrewchief76]

Originally Posted by thehouseproduct

That's a bummer. I had these grand dreams of progressive case forming with lube dies and all kinds of wonderment.

You and me both. I was hoping for the proverbial "poop through a goose" rate of forming brass.

Kevin

[Hoser]

Effectively destroying a Dillon 1050 toolhead isnt a cheap decision. The trimmer and form die are not cheap either.

Then when you factor in the cost a new trimmer every couple months and new carbide trimmer blades every 10-15K pcs or a *single* piece of steel cased brass, it gets even worse.

There is a reason why I am kinda picky when I say processed/sized brass will not work. Every trimmer I have killed went that way. And it takes under a second or two.

But it did give me an excuse to buy another 1050.

[Mike Bell]

MAN CAVE Heaven!!!!!!

[TCCrewchief76]

This is the reloading equivalent to Charlton Heston's gun collection...

Kevin

"Thou shalt not covet"...

"Thou shalt not covet"...

"Thou shalt not covet"...

[1andy2]

now that's a reloading room.

I've got a RCBS Jr, an old Pacific semi-progressive shotgun press, and an older dillon 1050.

And it looks like I'm about buy a new tool head for the 1050 to be the sacrificial lamb for my .300 whisper trim die. Yeah, $190 seems kind of excessive, but I've got plenty of good .300 whisper candidates...


Hoser, how did a single steel case destroy your trim die? If it just galled the neck or something, you might try chucking the die up in a lathe and polishing it with some fine emory cloth in a slotted dowel. At least, that's what the guy over at CH4D suggested.

[Hoser]

Originally Posted by 1andy2

Hoser, how did a single steel case destroy your trim die? If it just galled the neck or something, you might try chucking the die up in a lathe and polishing it with some fine emory cloth in a slotted dowel. At least, that's what the guy over at CH4D suggested.

Steel cased crap make short work of the cutter blade. The trimmer bogs down, but it does not kill it.

Things like that are why I have not had the guts to hook up a motor to my 1050 for processing brass. I can keep an eye on every piece of brass and I can feel how each one cuts. Most of the bad ones get culled by feel while forming. After they come out of the tumbler I inspect them all and usually dont find very many.

[Garrett]

Originally Posted by Hoser

Effectively destroying a Dillon 1050 toolhead isnt a cheap decision...

The pictures of your loading bench are nice and all, but how about some close-ups of what you had to modify on the toolhead / shellplate to get the .300W trimmer to work?

I'm planning on getting a Dillon trimmer in the near future, and making .300W brass on my 650 is one of the primary reasons.

Thanks.

[robrob]

We're kind of asking a businessman to divulge his manufacturing secrets here. I understand if we don't get detailed pics and a how-to...

[Garrett]

Originally Posted by robrob

We're kind of asking a businessman to divulge his manufacturing secrets here. I understand if we don't get detailed pics and a how-to...

Then having not seen the dies (or the Dillon trimmer for that matter), I may have misunderstood. I assumed what you get is a sizing die and a set of cutters, and that to use them you have to modify your own toolhead and/or shellplate.

Hence, me wanting to know what needs to be done, what works, not reinvent the wheel, etc.

If someone sells a complete setup, I'm good with that too.

[1andy2]

Honestly, I'm probably just going to take my new toolhead when it comes in along with the trim die, motor, and vacuum attachment down to the local machinist in town and work with him on it.

He's got better measuring equipment than I do, anyways.


As far as automation, I just got done hacking up a treadmill to run my dillon, but I've been doing hand sorts before loading the case feed hopper. Not too worried about burning up a cutter.