Quarterbore.Net Forums

Hoser · #31 10-31-2010, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grey2112

set up resizing die so that it touches the shellholder and then back out enough so that it engages when the lever is pulled down but not where it requires a herculean effort.

Most of the time for a semi-auto you must full length resize.

Screw the resize die to where it touches the shellholder, lower the arm the arm and screw the die in 1/8-1/4 of a turn to make sure the press cams over.

However, not being able to get factory ammo to chamber says something else is going on.

grey2112 · #32 10-31-2010, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hoser

Most of the time for a semi-auto you must full length resize.

Screw the resize die to where it touches the shellholder, lower the arm the arm and screw the die in 1/8-1/4 of a turn to make sure the press cams over.

However, not being able to get factory ammo to chamber says something else is going on.

OK, thought I remembered right :)

grey2112 · #33 10-31-2010, 06:16 PM

OK, this just in - new information!

I decided to take some of the advice give. I cleaned the hell out of the chamber, used a drill/brass brush combo, cleaned, used a bunch of CLP on the carrier and bolt, cleaned everything very well, then did the drill/brass brush combo again.

I loaded up a safe round (no primer) and full-length resized it, shell was 1.355 case length. Wiped off all case lube. Seated the bullet so that OAL was 2.10

Chambered it in my 8" first - NO PROBLEM. Well, it was a little (just a wee bit) "sticky" on extraction (I'm talking a slight resistance) but still it came out just fine, no scratched, no problems.

Then I chambered it in my 16" (remember, I just totally cleaned it, etc.)

Well, the round stuck. When I worked the charging handle no dice - so I did the POGO method and it pulled back but didn't grab and pull out the round. I had to really pound it out with a rod, and when the round popped out the bullet had found it's way into the brass shell - I assume this happened as I was pounding the round out with the rod. I tried a brand new, never fired shell - loaded it up the same way after full-length resizing, same measurements. This one wouldn't come out either, but when I did the pogo method of popping it out it came out and the bullet had not been pushed into the casing. I noticed numerous scratches, like lines, that ran the entire circumferunce of the neck from the opening of the neck to the shoulder - quite a few (over a dozen) all around the neck, evenly spaced. Pretty faint, but I could see them. Not really any marks on the bullet (the one that stayed in). There were a couple of faint, long scracthes on the body of the brass down to the rim.

I tried the same thing with one of my 220 grain subsonics - worked fine in the 8", got stuck REALLY bad in the 16" - I had to really POGO that thing - still nothing - finally had to resort to a method I hate but have used in the past - a flathead screwdriver through the magwell to engage the underside of the bolt carrier and pop it loose with a hammer - yeah, I know, bad juju, but it was the only way to get it loose. That round also had the above markings, including a few more long scratches on the body and a few on the bullet.

sha-ul · #34 10-31-2010, 10:43 PM

it sure sounds like your chamber came out flaky, I would say send it back to be checked/rechambered

SgtCottle · #35 10-31-2010, 11:41 PM

I have a barrel made by the same person you did ... it is TP555. I haven't had any really stuck cases like yours, but I have had issues with the markings around the case neck. I have also had to really do a lot of load developing because not all flavors like to eject like a lot of load data would say was good. I haven't thought about making any changes until reading your post, but I might take my honing rod and polish the neck area of the chamber now and see if that helps things. I wonder if these barrels were cut with an old reamer that was worn and caused the deminsions to be out of spec ... a tad on the small side.

Sarg

tp555 · #36 11-01-2010, 07:37 AM

The 1.4 reamer is tight compared to the 1.35" and I can open it up with the 1.35 PTG reamer.I will do that for my customers N/C.However I am waiting on a 30 AAC blackout reamer to arrive so I can spec it out.Supposed to arrive in a week.Want to see what the differences are.I'll let you know when it does.

grey2112 · #37 11-01-2010, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tp555

The 1.4 reamer is tight compared to the 1.35" and I can open it up with the 1.35 PTG reamer.I will do that for my customers N/C.However I am waiting on a 30 AAC blackout reamer to arrive so I can spec it out.Supposed to arrive in a week.Want to see what the differences are.I'll let you know when it does.

TP555 - thanks! I have to ask - what advantages will there be to getting it reamed to 30 AAC blackout? Can I still use all my .300 Whisper rounds (brass, bullets, loads) in the .30 AAC Blackout, but also of course use the new .30 AAC Blackout loads (future factory ammo as well as handloads, assuming I use the proper brass, dies, etc.)?

grey2112 · #38 11-01-2010, 11:00 AM

Pics of new brass case that I resized, marked with a magic marker, then chambered - had just as much trouble getting it out as I did with the loaded dummy and real rounds, so I don't think it is the bullet getting stuck or having an issue with being the problem -

TCCrewchief76 · #39 11-01-2010, 11:59 AM

I'm gonna go with scored chamber on this one.

grey2112 · #40 11-01-2010, 01:08 PM

TP555 is going to check it out for me.

Now, a question - if I get this reamed out to 300 AAC blackout, I assume I can still use and load my 300-221 super and subs, right? Meaning I can make ammo that will work in both the 300-221 8" and the 300 AAC blackout re-reamed 16", but then I can use factory 300 AAC Blackout in the 16".

Given that (if true) would I gain anything by getting 300 AAC Blackout dies? Would I need different brass then to take advantage of anything that the 300 AAC Blackout would give me?