Select Metal Lathe

[jlee]

Has anyone ever heard of a "Select" brand metal lathe? Is it any good. I am planning on buying a 10 x 30. I have a shop full of woodworking equipment including a wood turning lathe, but have never used a metal lathe. Any info would be helpful. Thanks jlee

[WhisperFan]

One thing to really consider in a metal lathe is the hole through the headstock. The spindle hole is very important. On a metal lathe, you really need to support the stock as near to the cutter as possible. While you can use a steady rest, or a follow rest .... but by far, the easiest way to support the stock, is by working close to the chuck.

On a 10x30 the hole through the spindle is probably an inch or slightly more. The average for a 12x36 is 1 3/8" .... 1.5" is a really handy size to have on a lathe that you are going to use for gunsmithing.

The bigger, and heavier the lathe is, the morre stable it is, and the more accurate your work will be.

[jlee]

Thanks Whisperfan for the reply. Not sure what the headstock hole diameter is. Will find out. Do you have to have a FFL to turn gun barrels? I know you do to make supressors.

[WhisperFan]

Originally Posted by jlee

Thanks Whisperfan for the reply. Not sure what the headstock hole diameter is. Will find out. Do you have to have a FFL to turn gun barrels? I know you do to make supressors.

Your answer about needing an FFL is, "It all depends"

Technically, gunsmiths that perform gunsmithing as a profession and for pay need an FFL.

There are nine types of FFL:

Type 1 - Dealer of or gunsmith for Title 1 fireamrs other than destructive devices.

Type 2 - A pawnbroker dealing in Title 1 firearms

Type 3 - Licensed collector of Curio & Relic (C&R) firearms

Type 6 - Licensed manufacturer of ammunition and reloading components other than Armor Piercing ammunition

Type 7 - Title 1 manufacturer of firearms, who can also act as dealer, other than Destructive Devices, ammunition and ammunition components other than Armor Piercing ammunition. Can also manufacture & deal in Title II NFA firearms with class 2 tax stamp.

Type 8 - Importer of Title 1 firearms and ammunition. Can also import Title II NFA firearms with class 1 tax stamp.

Type 9 -Dealer in Title 1 firearms including NFA destructive devices, Requires payment as an SOT Class 1 (can act as an NFA Dealer) and registration with the US Dept. of State as a Broker under ITAR/D-TRADE. To deal/broker any DD with an explosives content (i.e. Flash-Bangs), requires an additional FFL; Dealer of High Explosives

Type 10 - Manufacturer of Title 1 firearms, ammunition and ammunition components, manufacturer of NFA Destructive Devices, ammunition for Destructive Devices and Armor Piercing ammunition (can act as a dealer). Requires payment as an SOT Class 2 (can act as an NFA Dealer) and registration with the US Dept. of State as a Manufacturer under ITAR/D-TRADE. To manufacture any DD with an explosives content (i.e. Flash-Bangs), requires an additional FFL; Type 20 Manufacturer of High Explosives.

Type 11 - Importer of Title 1 firearms, ammunition and NFA Destructive Devices, ammunition for Destructive Devices and Armor Piercing ammunition. Requires payment as an SOT Class 1 and registration with the US Dept. of State as a Broker under ITAR/D-TRADE. To import any DD with an explosives content (i.e. Flash-Bangs), requires an additional FFL; Importer of High Explosives.

If you are going to turn barrels for yourself and your friends, no FFL is needed. If you are going to do it as part as a business, you would need a Type 1 FFL.

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As far as suppressors are concerened, if you are going to make suppressors for yourself, on a Form 1, no FFL are needed. If you are going to make suppressors for sale, you need a Type 7 FFL with a paid SOT (Special Occupational Tax) and then you can make and sell them to others. The added benefit of having your 07/SOT is that in addition to suppressors, you can make yourself a Glock 18, or convert your AR to a full-auto and you can buy post samples. Of course, you can't sell these posties to civilians.

[Gpz1100]

i did a LOT of searching, comparing, looking at what others had, brand names didn't seem to matter...IMO...there's not enough difference in the chinese models, FOR WHAT I DO, to justify paying hundreds or thousands more than the ones at harbor freight. i got a 12x37 with the stand + the 3 year extended warranty for $2070 including tax. i used 20% off coupons on the lathe and the stand. it has an 1.5" spindle hole. just my $0.02...

[jlee]

Thanks all. I located the 10x30 I mentioned and the man wants $600.00. That includes the metal stand and his tooling. He said he paid about $3,000.00 several years ago. What should I look for before putting down my hard earned money?

[sha-ul]

Originally Posted by jlee

Thanks all. I located the 10x30 I mentioned and the man wants $600.00. That includes the metal stand and his tooling. He said he paid about $3,000.00 several years ago. What should I look for before putting down my hard earned money?

You want to inspect the ways for wear, & make sure the bearings are tight, you can also look at the feed screws for how much slack they have on them, a lathe with many hours on it will have worn ways on the bed, and a lot of rotational slack on the feed screws.

[oregonshooter]

Cut something and do a run out on it.

[jlee]

Six hundred plus mile round trip and I picked up the lathe. It says Select Machine tool and Supply Co. on it. The guy I bought it from gave me a photo copy of a page from a Rutland Tool and Supply ad for a 12x36 which looks very much like the Select. He also gave me a parts list for gears which is for an Atlas lathe. He said they fit the Select. Could it be that Atlas made the lathe for Select Tool?