Select Metal Lathe
 

Has anyone ever heard of a "Select" brand metal lathe? Is it any good. I am planning on buying a 10 x 30. I have a shop full of woodworking equipment including a wood turning lathe, but have never used a metal lathe. Any info would be helpful. Thanks jlee

One thing to really consider in a metal lathe is the hole through the headstock. The spindle hole is very important. On a metal lathe, you really need to support the stock as near to the cutter as possible. While you can use a steady rest, or a follow rest .... but by far, the easiest way to support the stock, is by working close to the chuck.

On a 10x30 the hole through the spindle is probably an inch or slightly more. The average for a 12x36 is 1 3/8" .... 1.5" is a really handy size to have on a lathe that you are going to use for gunsmithing.

The bigger, and heavier the lathe is, the morre stable it is, and the more accurate your work will be.

Select lathe
 

Thanks Whisperfan for the reply. Not sure what the headstock hole diameter is. Will find out. Do you have to have a FFL to turn gun barrels? I know you do to make supressors.

Your answer about needing an FFL is, "It all depends"

Technically, gunsmiths that perform gunsmithing as a profession and for pay need an FFL.

There are nine types of FFL:

Type 1 - Dealer of or gunsmith for Title 1 fireamrs other than destructive devices.

Type 2 - A pawnbroker dealing in Title 1 firearms

Type 3 - Licensed collector of Curio & Relic (C&R) firearms

Type 6 - Licensed manufacturer of ammunition and reloading components other than Armor Piercing ammunition

Type 7 - Title 1 manufacturer of firearms, who can also act as dealer, other than Destructive Devices, ammunition and ammunition components other than Armor Piercing ammunition. Can also manufacture & deal in Title II NFA firearms with class 2 tax stamp.

Type 8 - Importer of Title 1 firearms and ammunition. Can also import Title II NFA firearms with class 1 tax stamp.

Type 9 -Dealer in Title 1 firearms including NFA destructive devices, Requires payment as an SOT Class 1 (can act as an NFA Dealer) and registration with the US Dept. of State as a Broker under ITAR/D-TRADE. To deal/broker any DD with an explosives content (i.e. Flash-Bangs), requires an additional FFL; Dealer of High Explosives

Type 10 - Manufacturer of Title 1 firearms, ammunition and ammunition components, manufacturer of NFA Destructive Devices, ammunition for Destructive Devices and Armor Piercing ammunition (can act as a dealer). Requires payment as an SOT Class 2 (can act as an NFA Dealer) and registration with the US Dept. of State as a Manufacturer under ITAR/D-TRADE. To manufacture any DD with an explosives content (i.e. Flash-Bangs), requires an additional FFL; Type 20 Manufacturer of High Explosives.

Type 11 - Importer of Title 1 firearms, ammunition and NFA Destructive Devices, ammunition for Destructive Devices and Armor Piercing ammunition. Requires payment as an SOT Class 1 and registration with the US Dept. of State as a Broker under ITAR/D-TRADE. To import any DD with an explosives content (i.e. Flash-Bangs), requires an additional FFL; Importer of High Explosives.

If you are going to turn barrels for yourself and your friends, no FFL is needed. If you are going to do it as part as a business, you would need a Type 1 FFL.

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As far as suppressors are concerened, if you are going to make suppressors for yourself, on a Form 1, no FFL are needed. If you are going to make suppressors for sale, you need a Type 7 FFL with a paid SOT (Special Occupational Tax) and then you can make and sell them to others. The added benefit of having your 07/SOT is that in addition to suppressors, you can make yourself a Glock 18, or convert your AR to a full-auto and you can buy post samples. Of course, you can't sell these posties to civilians.

i did a LOT of searching, comparing, looking at what others had, brand names didn't seem to matter...IMO...there's not enough difference in the chinese models, FOR WHAT I DO, to justify paying hundreds or thousands more than the ones at harbor freight. i got a 12x37 with the stand + the 3 year extended warranty for $2070 including tax. i used 20% off coupons on the lathe and the stand. it has an 1.5" spindle hole. just my $0.02... :smile:

Select lathe
 

Thanks all. I located the 10x30 I mentioned and the man wants $600.00. That includes the metal stand and his tooling. He said he paid about $3,000.00 several years ago. What should I look for before putting down my hard earned money?

You want to inspect the ways for wear, & make sure the bearings are tight, you can also look at the feed screws for how much slack they have on them, a lathe with many hours on it will have worn ways on the bed, and a lot of rotational slack on the feed screws.

Cut something and do a run out on it.

Select lathe
 

Six hundred plus mile round trip and I picked up the lathe. It says Select Machine tool and Supply Co. on it. The guy I bought it from gave me a photo copy of a page from a Rutland Tool and Supply ad for a 12x36 which looks very much like the Select. He also gave me a parts list for gears which is for an Atlas lathe. He said they fit the Select. Could it be that Atlas made the lathe for Select Tool?