Tracer Info

[snowhack]

Just got a bag-o-bullets from Cheaper Than Dirt. 147gr 7.62 tracers. VERY excited!! Got a few (5) loaded just for starters, used data for 150gr bullets (18gr of H110). The bullets are 147gr. Does anyone have any more precise load data for these or am I ok using the 150gr data? Do I need a bigger kick to ignite the tracer primer than the H110 can give? Any help would be great. I did try the search fuction on this page and got zilch.

Still waiting for the rifle kit from Mod 1 though. They are out of .300 Fire Ball barrels. They say this week or next.... I got ahead of myself buying dies, a lower reciever, forming brass and loading already. I probobly don't need to explain myself to anyone here though. If they discontinue the darn thing watch e-Bay for some great reloading deals....... Thanks guys.

[RWBlue]

I have not loaded tracers for 300-221.
I have not reloaded tracers for any caliber.

I did a lot of research about tracers a few years back. I found out that there are certain powders that will light tracers and some that will definatly not light them. I gave up on this project because of possible corrosian issues and the lack of reliable tracers for the caliber I was looking for. I have since lost this data.

As a side question, why do you want 300-221 tracers?

[pug]

It use to be your odds of getting them to light would increase if you used a hotter burning stick powder like IMR brand. Also if the supplier doesn't state they light really good then you may have a hard time anyway as some have been setting around a long time in not the best storage conditions.

[snowhack]

I'm in the Military plus I just think tracers are cool. I don't want to start fires, which I've seen tracers do, so I'll be conservitive about using them anyway.

They are 30-06 stock so I would imagine they are quit old. For under $10 per 100 what the heck.

The only load data I have for .300-221 uses pistol powder so maybe I'll just shelf the idea for now.

[RWBlue]

Gee at that price it is almost worthwhile to give them a try even if they don't light.

Are you using a suppressor? If you are watch the bullets to make sure they are consentric (not out of round, not missing parts of the tracer components on one side).

[pug]

Hope I didn't turn you off of the idea its just most of the loads for the 300/221 are fast burning double base ball powders which develop high velocity but don't burn as hot as the single base extruded powders. Look around and there are loads for N110, 4227, 4198 and 2015 all single base and might light them. I have used as slow a rifle powder as H322 in 300/221 at reduced velocity so you should find something that will work.

Quarterbore.com and reloadersnest.com have some load data using the slower extruded powders.

Just read the review on them at CTD and that fellow used 4895 and said they worked great. :)

[snowhack]

Not turned off at all. I'm new at handloading, but I play a good game of catch-up. I'll look around a bit and at the powders you mentioned and I'll CAREFULLY work my way up to igniton. Like I said at <$10 I can afford to tinker, I just don't want to melt my AR.

The rounds appear to be prestine, no pull marks. I'm not sure if they are pulled or loose surplus. Lots of cosmoline to clean off thats it. They look better, cleaned up, than my Cor-lokt bullets.

$9.96 from Cheaper Than Dirt. 5.56 and 7.62. Thanks guys.

[ShuckersFan]

Do they have the copper caps or the plastic ones? I have been told the copper ones are more likely to light then the plastic ones. To light it, you have to have enough heat to burn through the cup and enough left over to get it burning. Not much powder in the Fireball, so it may not be eough to get it going. The military tracers actually use a different powder for tracer rounds that burns hotter to make sure they light.

[snowhack]

Copper..............