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09-16-2006, 03:16 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Southwest Louisiana
Posts: 172
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300 whisper bolt-gun recommendations
I am looking for recommendations on building a 300 whisper bolt-gun...I am thinking about using a Howa 1500 .223 action....any suggestions are much appreciated.
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09-16-2006, 08:37 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 162
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I liked the howa action. A metal trigger guard and beefy extractor.You shouldn't have any problem. regards.
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09-16-2006, 10:12 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Southwest Louisiana
Posts: 172
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tp555....thanks for the info....on the subject: rate of twist and barrel length.....I would like to shoot sonic and sub-sonic loads....on the low end 220gr at 1050fps and on the high end 125 to 150gr at around 2000fps.....is the 1:8 a good all-around or do I need a different twist with the 125s and 150s at 2000fps.....what about barrel length??
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09-16-2006, 10:38 PM
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Junior Member
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Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 21
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Hey kurtz,
I'm interested to see the responses to your last post. Should be some interesting differences of opinions. I have personal experience with Howa actions, and my rifle (a Weatherby Vanguard in .25/06) shot VERY well, so your choice should prove to be a good one, unless you have a 700 action laying around. If you do but don't want to use it, I'll give you a little somethin' for it!
Anyway, for the twist info. I'm betting you will get responses that may include it's not possible to do both things with the same barrel. My opinion is it depends on what you plan to do with the rifle and what degree of accurracy you will be happy with. You will have to choose a fast twist if you want to shoot big bullets, but what I am not sure of is how much accuracy potential you will lose by spinning 125gr bullets that fast. If you're just wanting to shoot deer out to 150 yards it may be a moot point, but like I said, I'm not sure.
Based on the general rule that you don't want to spin a bullet any faster than necessary to stabilize it, the light bullets in a fast twist barrel will push the limits considerably, but let's all see what kind of info comes back and we'll learn together. Good luck, X
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09-17-2006, 02:12 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Southwest Louisiana
Posts: 172
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X...thanks for your experience with the Howa (sorry, no 700 short-actions in the safe)....the rifle that I would like to build would use primarily suppressed sub-sonic 220s.....the 125s or 150s would be for the occasional deer or hog hunting trip at around 100 to 150 yards....one of my concerns is that the faster/lighter 125-150 bullets over time may degrade the performance/accuracy of the barrel to a noticable level when using the 220s.....I realize that nothing lasts forever but I don't want to tear up a barrel out of my own ignorance, I would rather build (2) purpose built rifles, hope thats not necessary......hopefully someone will write in with experiences on a 1:8 barrel using heavy and light loads....
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09-17-2006, 04:07 AM
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Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 21
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You'll only be using 10-20gr of powder, so you'll have to TRY to shoot the barrel out, so I wouldn't let that worry affect your decision. I would bet a lot of money that whatever barrel you pick will still be punching moa groups long after you start "pushing up daisies". I doubt a fast twist will show any problems with your pig shooting, but like I said, there are people here WAY more knowledgeable than me with personal experience to back their opinion, so you'll get the advice you need.
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09-17-2006, 09:17 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
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I have made 30/221 barrels for over 10 years. My reamer has a '95 date marked
on it.Nobody ever bad mouthed the 1 in 8 twist. Some guys do 1/4" groups with
handload tweeking in an ar. One guy got 2 1/2" at 200yds with a 10 inch barrel
just screwing around. He bought another. I'd definately go with a 1 in 8 twist.
regards.
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09-17-2006, 12:29 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Southwest Louisiana
Posts: 172
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if 1:8 twist is the standard in twist, what about length?.....16"??....the accuracy of a 2 1/2" group at 200yds with the 10" AR that tp wrote back about is awesome for a SBR...If MOA or close to it can be maintained with a 10 to 12" bolt-gun another tax stamp may be in the future for this project...
on the subject of dies: I purchased a set of Hornady 300 Whisper dies from SSK....I have loaded about 300 rounds of various sonic and sub-sonic loads anticipating the build of this bolt-action project...at the time of purchase of the dies from SSK I also picked up 100 rounds of loaded 220gr sub-sonic from them....I have not asked them about this, but I noticed a difference in the sharpness of the neck to case shoulder...the SSK loaded rounds have a noticeably sharper shoulder than what I have been able to form with the Hornady dies....Redding is the most common name I hear mentioned during 300 whisper reloading discussions...Any similar experience with the Hornady dies not making a sharp shoulder?...
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09-17-2006, 11:33 PM
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Junior Member
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Join Date: May 2006
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My dies are Redding, but the shoulder isn't real sharp until fire-formed with the first shot. I make my brass from Rem. .223 brass. You're mighty brave loading that many rounds before you know for sure the brass is sized small enough to chamber in your un-made chamber. My contender would not close completely with a case full length sized with the Redding sizing die, so I had to run them through a small base .223 die before the first firing. That is most likely due to the fact the brass was once-fired in a .223 before I cut it down, so hopefully you'll be OK, 'cause it would not be fun to pull that many bullets!
Keep us informed. X
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09-19-2006, 12:00 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Southwest Louisiana
Posts: 172
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thanks for the feedback X.....I took one of the loaded SSK 220 rounds, un-loaded it, measured the case dimensions and followed suit...The rounds that I got from SSK are stamped L C and what looks like 8 4....
(I'm guessing Lake City .223 brass, don't know for sure)....I formed my brass from un-fired .223 Winchester....I cut a set of aluminum jaws for a three jaw lathe chuck with the correct taper to match the .223 brass and a back stop to set the repeatable depth of the brass in the jaws the same each time....rough cut the case length on the lathe....form the brass...final trim, and so on...I'm with you, I hope the case length is ok...if not, sucks being me...thanks again for the feedback...
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