Winchester Model 70 trigger adjustment?

[Zeus77]

Greetings from the latest FNG,

I just read the excellent article on adjusting the Remington model 700 factory trigger. Tried it on mine and it works great! Does anyone have similar instructions on how to adjust the factory Winchester Model 70 (post64) trigger? I have one of the newer ones purchased from Wal-Mart about 5-6 years ago (7MM Rem Mag, synthetic stock) and it HAS THE WORST trigger I have ever used. If so, can you send me a link or email it to me? email address is jfalquez@juno.com. Thanks in advance

Zeus

[Quarterbore]

I found an old post on Rec Guns... I have nevermodified a Win M70 trigger as I have never owned a Winchester Model 70

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Adjusting the Model 70 Trigger
by Frank Kleinburg (fkleinbu@tivoli.tivoli.com)
(Original article posted at www.recguns.com)

Let me discuss how the trigger on the Model 70 works. Knowing how it works will allow you to know how a gunsmith would adjust it.

The trigger mechanism on the Winchester Model 70 is remarkably simple. Remove the barreled acton of a Model 70 from it's stock and you can see just how simple it is. You will see a trigger that pivots on a pin. Look at the rear portion of the trigger (normally hidden by the stock) and you will see a square head screw (the trigger stop screw), three nuts, and a spring (we'll call it the trigger return spring).

The purpose of the trigger stop screw is to limit the amount of over travel of the trigger. It is possible to screw the trigger stop screw in far enough that you will not be able to pull the trigger enough to release the sear. Ideally the trigger stop screw should be screwed in as far as it can and still have enough trigger movement to reliably release the sear. This will allow for the greatest
amount of adjustment of the trigger spring tension.

Tension on the trigger return spring determines a majority of the trigger pull weight (the rest of the trigger pull weight comes from the friction between the trigger and the sear). The spring surrounds the trigger stop screw, both can be seen just behind the trigger. The trigger stop screw is held in place by a pair of captive nuts, one on each side of the part of the trigger the stop
screw passes through. A third nut sets the tension on the trigger spring. Tightening this third nut (turning it clockwise) against the trigger spring will increase the trigger pull. And turning it counter clockwise will decrease the trigger pull weight.

After making any adjustments, be absolutely sure to test for an excessively light trigger. To do this, screw the barreled action back in the stock. With the bolt cocked, in the closed position on an empty chamber, and the safety off, butt down the rifle. That is hold the rifle barrel pointing upward, let the butt bounce on the ground. It should take a considerable bump to cause the firing pin to drop (on the empty chamber).

On a friend's pre-64 Model 70 trigger, the spring had to be changed because enough of the trigger spring pretension could not be removed to get an acceptable trigger pull weight. Yet on another (on one of those new classic actions), it was possible to remove ALL of the trigger spring pretension. This is a dangerous situation because only the trigger to sear tension keeps the
cocked rifle from firing.

Well I hope you now have a better understanding of how a Model 70 trigger works. Of course for all trigger pull weight adjustments you should take your rifle to a reputable gunsmith.

[Quarterbore]

Here is a link that looks pretty good:

http://www.snipercountry.com/Article...WinTrigger.asp

Adjusting a Winchester Trigger

07 October 2001
By Paul "Pablito" Coburn
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First, the disclaimer:
In the U.S.A., we live in a litigious society, and for those of you who live in Rio Linda, this means that fools will do really stupid things, and then sue someone else, because "It's their fault, they told me I could do it!".

For those of you that don't know what you're doing, STAY AWAY FROM TRIGGERS! You can hurt someone... usually someone else.

Adjusting the trigger of a new rifle was once an expected job of the owner of a new gun, just like adjusting the seats in your new car.

Remington forbids adjustment of their triggers, and doing so will void your warranty.

However, Winchester has no concerns about you adjusting their trigger, and adjusting the Winchester trigger WON'T void your warranty.

And finally, your mileage may vary according to road conditions. If you are new at guns, and lack experience to do minor internal repairs and parts replacement, then this project may not be for you.

Do not do the following unless you are skilled enough to work on guns, and responsible enough to handle them safely. I am presenting the following article as "For Information Purposes Only".

It is SOLELY your decision whether you have the skill and ability to use this information. If you have ANY doubts as to your ability to do what is described here, then take the rifle to a qualified gunsmith!

If you have an accident, it means that you weren't skilled enough, or responsible enough, so you shouldn't have done the following. So, it's not my fault, nor the fault of Sniper Country!


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Winchester triggers are a piece of cake.
You will need a tiny 1/4", open ended wrench, (better to have two), and a very small screwdriver. Also, have a bottle of nail polish (pink;) handy to lock the screw and nuts in place after you have finished all the adjustments.

Pull the action out. There are three nuts on the trigger... the two nuts that are together, hold and lock the spring that controls the "pull weight". The single nut locks the over-travel screw in it's setting.

The engagement setting is machined into the trigger bar with a gauge, and I've never had one that had an engagement problem. If your trigger has excessive creep, don't try to file it. This is a job for a very skilled trigger 'smith, and for the cost of the labor, you are better off getting an after-market trigger like the "Jewel"!

OK...

Lay the barreled action out on a clean work space (tell your wife you'll be finished before dinner).

With the 1/4" wrench(s), loosen all three nuts.

Start by adjusting the pull weight. Move the nut "pair" down to contact the trigger, and try the weight... if it's too light, move them up towards the action, and try again, repeating as necessary until you like it.

If the pull is too heavy when the two nuts are down on the trigger, then unscrew and remove the trigger stop.
Remove the spring, and cut off one coil. Then replace the spring, and start over again.
When you have the pull weight as you like it, lock the two nuts against each other.

Next, using the small screwdriver, adjust the over-travel screw to your liking, and lock the nut against the trigger bar.

Now, put a dab of nail polish on the nuts to hold them tight.

Don't put Loctite on triggers... use women's nail polish on triggers (pink works best ;) to hold the screws or nuts in place... Loctite can seize the small screws and nuts used in triggers, making them impossible to adjust or remove.

The Winchester nuts won't shoot loose if properly tightened, but the Remington screws WILL slowly work themselves loose over time, so they MUST have nail polish on the heads.

Finally, put it back together. Remember that the two end bolts hold the action into the stock, and require 65 inch pounds of torque (if you have a torque wrench), or to be very tight, if you just have a screwdriver.

But also remember that the middle screw is just to secure the front of the trigger guard, and hold the magazine box in place, so have it snug, but not over tight... the middle screw does NOT hold the action in place.


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[BLeeber]

Good posts. I actually love my M70 and it's trigger. But, I bought my rifles in reverse order. I started as a lefty. So, my rifles were levers, auto's and NEF single shots...all having heavy triggers. So, I learned on a heavy trigger. When I recently bought my M70, I thought..."wow, a hair trigger." LOL

I'll keep these links handy though...just in case.