tp555 300 whisper barrels

[Scalce]

Originally Posted by SwampF0X

I've reloaded other catridges but I've never used a case gage. I just load to the recommended OAL and let it be.

Once I shoot up all my 223's I plan to let someone form my brass to 300 whisper. From there I'll load my own according to info I find on this site.

If tp555 builds my barrel and assembles my upper (and he probably will) Who should I get to form/size my brass so that I won't have any problems?

thanks,
swampf0x

The OAL has nothing to do with how much you are bumping back the shoulder.

While most standard rifle case gauges can be used to check the OAL of a case, the main use is to make sure you have the proper amount of body and shoulder sizing to allow the case to chamber in a SAAMI spec rifle chamber. The gauge also allows you to not overwork your brass by bumping the shoulder back too much which potentially shortens the case life.

Even if you have someone initially form your brass, you will still need to full length size your brass for a semi auto or at least neck size for a bolt gun. You may also have to occassionally full length size for a bolt gun if the case gets hard to chamber and extract after a few firings.

I would say that you should have tp555 make you a chamber gauge along with your barrel.

This will allow you to send it to whomever forms your brass so there will be little chance of the brass not being sized correctly.

You will also have the gauge for your own use when resizing the fired brass.

Ask tp555 but I bet he will advise you to form only commercial 223 brass and to shy away from milsurp as it may have chambering issues because of a more rounded shoulder during initial forming.

I hope you don't think my posts are meant to insult you as I am just trying to give you as much info as possible so you can enjoy shooting your rifle.

This catridge is still technically a wildcat and there are many variables such as gunsmiths, chamber reamers, throats, cases, bullets, dies, and more that can be a factor.

I am still learning alot about it myself but I think that is half the fun.

[SwampF0X]

No I'm not insulted in the least. That helped me understand things a little bit clearer. I have no problem full length sizing my brass. I don't have any Mil Surp brass. Most of it is new Win. The rest is Federal and 2 boxes of Remington.

OK just to make sure I'm following, I should:

a. have tp555 make me a case gage along with my barrel
b. send my brass and case gage to someone for them to form (Who?)
c. full length size my brass with Redding dies (tp555 recommended) once I get it back

Should I have tp555 use his old reamer or the new shorter one?

Then what? Am I ready to go shooting after I load some up? Most of my brass will only see maybe 2 loadings. I don't shoot a lot and I bought enough brass to defend my home in case of invasion :D

thanks,
swampf0x

[oregonshooter]

He will cut it from the same reamer (1.350) that he does the barrel.

You can fire-form your brass yourself. My plan (anyone tell me if this is wrong) is to fireform then use my .308 mic (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tnumber=574297) to find the datum point (should work since the neck up is .308 right?) and reset the shoulder .002" like I do on my .308 gun. Use the case guage as a double check.

You should hear the shoulder hit the case guage as you drop it in and then have the cartridge flat on the back end to know you are in the right spot if I understand the process.

If the case guage has the bore dia at the end, I'm guessing that you can actually set OAL to visually touch where the lands are in the barrel for a perfect shoulder setback and nose to lands fit.

I believe that is why tp555 is going to the 1.350" reamer because you will be able to get up to the lands where you can't on a 1.400 chamber because of the AR15 mag OAL limit.

I just hope mine is in 1.350" :)

[tp555]

Let me know which reamer you want used on your barrel.The default is the 1.4" clymer.

[Scalce]

Originally Posted by SwampF0X

a. have tp555 make me a case gage along with my barrel
b. send my brass and case gage to someone for them to form (Who?)
c. full length size my brass with Redding dies (tp555 recommended) once I get it back

Should I have tp555 use his old reamer or the new shorter one?

Then what? Am I ready to go shooting after I load some up? Most of my brass will only see maybe 2 loadings. I don't shoot a lot and I bought enough brass to defend my home in case of invasion

a. Yes, definately worth the money.
b. I wouldn't see why you couldn't include your chamber gauge as you will most likely ship your brass in a flat rate anyway. I am not sure if the person would change his current settings to suit your chamber but you can always ask. I do not have firsthand experience but it seems there are a few people here that offer brass forming services. Your best bet it to ask around.
c. You will only need to FL size your formed brass after it is fired and the chamber gauge can be used to set it up properly.

I would say to go with the 1.355" OAL reamer as that seems to be more common now than the 1.4" which I think was a slightly older spec.

You should be able to add a primer, powder of choice, and bullet once you get your formed brass back and be ready to test some loads.

Keep in mind that you may always have some type of slight chambering issue on newly formed brass that have not been fire formed to your chamber.

This could be anywhere from the round not chambering completely and the bolt not going into battery which stops the firing pin from hitting the primer or just a slightly rounded shoulder that makes a chambered, but not fired round hard to extract.

You can always test the rounds in your gauge but rounds being cycled in a semi auto if the real test as there are more real world factors at play.

[SwampF0X]

Originally Posted by tp555

Let me know which reamer you want used on your barrel.The default is the 1.4" clymer.

Which one is recommended for heavy subs?

swampf0x

[oregonshooter]

Originally Posted by SwampF0X

Which one is recommended for heavy subs?

swampf0x

+1

For an AR barrel with OAL issues cause of the mag, I'm assuming the 1.350 is being used to allow getting the bullet closer to the lands?

tp555,
We both need educating! What is the case trim length with the 1.350 and why would anyone want it?

[tp555]

I make stuff.You guys get to play with it more than me.The 1.35" is JDJ spec.What does he say? Typical trim is .010" shorter.

[oregonshooter]

Having done a little more reading, my conclusion is that if you are loading resized .223 like me there is not much advantage to a 1.350 as it's best for 221 brass that does not flow out past 1.350 when resized. A reduced chamber length and a long case can equal kaboom pretty fast and the advantage of a supported neck on a shor bullet is over shadowed by this IMO.

Make mine a 1.40 for safety reasons please!!

[Scalce]

Originally Posted by oregonshooter

Having done a little more reading, my conclusion is that if you are loading resized .223 like me there is not much advantage to a 1.350 as it's best for 221 brass that does not flow out past 1.350 when resized. A reduced chamber length and a long case can equal kaboom pretty fast and the advantage of a supported neck on a shor bullet is over shadowed by this IMO.

Make mine a 1.40 for safety reasons please!!

Interesting

So I am assuming people who trim to 1.355" have a 1.4" chamber?

See why you shouldn't listen to my comments?