How I make whisper brass ...

[Scalce]

Originally Posted by oregonshooter

Oh, my mistake. I thought the first was to bring it half way on a .223 also. Newb here!

No worries

I am a newbie when it comes to this caliber as well.

I just didn't want you stressing for nothing as the Redding dies work well.

If you want to crimp your rounds with the Redding seater die, you will have to shave down a shellholder which really isn't a big deal.

Personally I do not think I will ever crimp my rounds for this caliber.

[snipecatcher]

To the OP: something else you might try is running the case (step A) into the sizing die before you cut it, so you have 2 shoulders. THEN cut off at the right place, that way you only have to trim once.
-Dan

[WhisperFan]

Originally Posted by snipecatcher

To the OP: something else you might try is running the case (step A) into the sizing die before you cut it, so you have 2 shoulders. THEN cut off at the right place, that way you only have to trim once.
-Dan

You mean run it into the sizing die without the expander ball installed?

If you have the expander ball installed, you won't have two shoulders, but just the one for the Whisper, with a really long neck.

My problem with sizing before trimming is this ....

If I take a .223 case and size it to 300 Whisper, I have a Whisper case with a really long neck. I no longer have any point of reference were to cut to. So I have to use m manual trimmer to take off a lot of brass ..... a lot of brass ... with a Lyman trimmer. I don't want to buy a power trimmer, as I don't have a need to do a lot of brass.
If I whack off the brass at the old ..223 shoulder, it takes a second to accomplish, and it takes off a lot of the brass that I would have to trim with the trimmer. Since the edge is so rough, I have to go really slowly, so the cutter doesn't dig in, but I spin it pretty fast and feed pretty slow (to start)

So - in essence, the shoulder of the .223 gives me a point of reference to whack off the brass to.

I suppose, if I were to remove the expander ball, it would create two shoulders and I would still have a place to whack the brass to, but then the brass would have to go back into the die, with the expander in place after cutting and trimming, and still might grow, to need a second trim.

I'm open to suggestions - but bear in mind that I am a cheap bastard, and I am going to keep my manual timmer, and not invest in any new equipment.

[snipecatcher]

Yeah I usually remove the expander ball, and use the original .223 shoulder as a reference point to cut the brass (I cut just below the shoulder, and don't have to trim much.) I then cut, trim, and for the final step I just run the brass through the neck sizer die. This reduces any case stretching I may have. I guess it doesn't really cut down on the work, I just really don't like trimming brass, and prefer to run it through the die a second time instead of trimming it a second time.

[Scalce]

Originally Posted by snipecatcher

Yeah I usually remove the expander ball, and use the original .223 shoulder as a reference point to cut the brass (I cut just below the shoulder, and don't have to trim much.) I then cut, trim, and for the final step I just run the brass through the neck sizer die. This reduces any case stretching I may have. I guess it doesn't really cut down on the work, I just really don't like trimming brass, and prefer to run it through the die a second time instead of trimming it a second time.

I just started using this method as well but I neck size before I trim.

My chop saw makes a pretty clean cut and I can always use a chamfer/deburr tool if I think the cuts are too ugly but so far I haven't had issues with the neck die or expander.