My 300 build is finally up and running!

[alorton]

I used the Specter length and it is threaded for the end cap.

[Scalce]

Originally Posted by alorton

I used the Specter length and it is threaded for the end cap.

So the 10.5" barrel clears the tube enough to add an end cap right?

I am not sure I would add one but it is something to ponder while I wait for my paperwork to clear.

What are you using to change your gas setting?

Does a small screwdriver fit in the slot?

BTW very nice looking rig and good luck with it.

[alorton]

There would be plenty of room for the endcap. The 10.5" leaves about a 1/8" gap between the base of the flash hider and the end of the tube. I know it is hard to see in my photos.

That 1/8" leaves me room to get a slim wrench in there to remove or tighten the flash hider so an endcap would not be a problem.

A small screw driver does fit in the slot and is what I have been using to change the gas block settings. What I'm finding since shooting suppressed is that the added crap that blows back seems to be making the gas block harder to adjust. It isn't hard by any means, but it no longer feels like it's well oiled so to speak. I'm now concerned that I may have trouble over time with that because the small screw driver doesn't give me much leverage with that tiny slot.

Since I can't clean the inside of the gas block without completely tearing down the upper I may end up switching to a quad rail to give me access to the block with a larger screw driver. We'll see if it keeps getting harder to turn with time. The reason I chose this particular handguard was because I didn't have one on any other rifle (looks different so I don't put the wrong ammo in one of my rifles), it had a slot that allow access to the gas block, and it concealed the stainless barrel (I prefer black but wanted a stainless barrel on a suppressed weapon due to corrosion that can be caused if you leave the suppressor on for extended periods because of condensation).

[Scalce]

I am seeing my adjustable block get more difficult to turn on my AR10 which is not suppressed, yet.

That is why I asked how you were adjusting it as I know it can get harder to move it to a different position.

Thanks for working all the kinks out for me.

[TheAlmightyBob]

This is exactly what I want mine to be. Although the only thing missing from my currect set up is the asa upper. But I have the same barrel and handguard, and our lowers look exactly the same.

Would you mind if I got your opinion on your asa upper?

[alorton]

It is a beautifully crafted upper. The parts fit well and the action is very smooth. I like the side charging handle very much but it does take some getting used to if you are accustomed to a standard AR. I chose it for this build for a very specific reason, to cycle the weapon with the gas turned off while prone using a bipod. It is also very handy for not having clearance issues with a scope.

Since it is non-reciprocating you don't have to worry about getting your fingers in the way with one notable exception. If you manually cycle the bolt on an empty mag the charging handle will stay back with the bolt. Then if you hit the release, the lever slams forward right where the release is and can bite you. When I manually cycle the bolt and it locks back, I push the handle forward and fold it in. That way, when I push the release the handle is already forward and this isn't a problem. If you don't push the handle forward as I do then you could use the handle to release the bolt when you put in a fresh magazine, much like it is taught to pull the slide on a handgun as opposed to pushing the slide release lever. This would also prevent problems.

Another issue is it does make locking the bolt open manually (as you would for a double feed clearance drill) a bit tricky. It is also a good idea when you rack in the first round to fold the handle back down afterward. This keeps the floating charging handle locked in place.

These are all minor issues for me as I won't be using one on every AR I put together (the ASA side charger is a bit pricey). But if you want something unique and well made, it is a good choice.

As for use with a suppressed rifle, it definitely seems to have less gas in the face compared to shooting my 223 rifles suppressed. I think the ASA has something to to with that, but it could also be that the full power 223 rounds vent more gas back than the lower pressure subsonic 300's.

I think it would make a great upper for a long range build like a 6.5 Grendel as well. It works well with optics and allows you to cycle the weapon prone without using your firing hand.