AK receiver reinforcement plates

[Chuckles]

I am thinking of putting a plate on my build . I am going to fabricate the plate myself and I think I will low temp silver solder it to the receiver base instead of spot welding . This should be even more rigid and a much lower spot point heat input. Has anybody ever tried this? Sides I don't have a spotwelder and I am not going to spring for one just for this .

[aloharover]

Very intersting idea. Where exactly were you planning on plating? I had thought about a thicker side plate around the fire control group on both sides of the receiver and thought to have it extend further forward on the left side so that it could be drilled and tapped for an L shaped scope mount.
Love to see some photos of what you come up with.

Pete

[Quarterbore]

Originally Posted by aloharover

Very intersting idea. Where exactly were you planning on plating? I had thought about a thicker side plate around the fire control group on both sides of the receiver and thought to have it extend further forward on the left side so that it could be drilled and tapped for an L shaped scope mount.
Love to see some photos of what you come up with.

Pete

I am pretty sure these are the receiver reinforcement plates he is refering to:

http://www.quarterbore.net/forums/showthread.php?t=543

I managed to buy a couple and I will be using one on a Rommy Undefolder project soon. I will be using my spot welder to attach it as I do have the spot welder.

[aloharover]

Originally Posted by Quarterbore

I am pretty sure these are the receiver reinforcement plates he is refering to:

http://www.quarterbore.net/forums/showthread.php?t=543

I managed to buy a couple and I will be using one on a Rommy Undefolder project soon. I will be using my spot welder to attach it as I do have the spot welder.

Doah!!
:D

[Chuckles]

It is the receiver reinforcement just ahead of the trigger .
I am going to use the low temp silver solder which goes at about 600F . This is below the critical temp for carbon steels . I know that the surface area of the faying surfaces will give a much higher bond strength than 6 or so spots which can actually concentrate the stresses , and also be possible crack starters . JB weld just does not have the tensile strength or malleability to perform in this type of situation . It will look good , but when it will really be needed to prevent distortion guess what .It will fail miserably .

[Chuckles]

I installed a steel sidemount for the scope bracket which I think does the same job as the reinforcement so I will not do the plate thing at this point . But I am definitely going to do something with the trigger . I just cannot stand all that creep . For the ratatat-tat thing creep is not a problem but for controlled fire it is no good . I sort of like to know when the trigger will break and the less perceived movement the better . Ideally you should just think bang and its gone . I know that I will not get a glass break but I believe it can be made pretty good . The one thing in its favour is that the hammer is held pretty high so there is not too much pressure on the sears which should make it easier to fine tune . First I am going to study the whole contraption a lot and pick all the brains that I can find . Sooner or later I will figure it out and do something that will work

[aztroop]

Well I too was not going to buy a spot welder to attach the pistol grip plate. I fit the trigger guard and fit the pistol grip plate then put some JB weld and let it dry. Solid as a rock.