Suppressor baffle question

[TCCrewchief76]

How much larger does one drill the hole over bullet diameter? Is it like a muzzle brake (.050")? I'm gonna submit a form 1 to our lovely BATFE and play the waiting game. 'Nother question; making the can of aluminum, how thick should the wall thickness be if I'm using 6061-T6? I can't find the info on material thicknesses for the lightweight 9mm cans. Thanks fellas!

Respectfully,

Kevin

[Spook]

perhaps a better place to ask :http://www.silencertests.com/silencer-forum/

[amafrank]

Spooks got some good advice there.....

I'd like to add that the questions you're asking need a lot more info to really get any realistic answer. The amount of windage(over bore diameter) for your baffles and endcap will vary considerably depending on not only the round you are shooting but also on your skills with the machine work. Can you keep the bore, threads, can and baffles concentric within a few thou or do you have loose threads cut at an angle to the bore? The tighter you can keep your tolerances and concentricities the less you need to overbore the baffles.
Are you shooting a round like .223 which seems to have a bit of the wobblies out of the barrel? Some rounds take a bit to stabilize and they need more room.

On the material spec, what round are you suppressing, how much pressure and gas are you trying to contain and will you have a lot of heat buildup? Is it semi auto or bolt action? Aluminum cans can be great on some rounds and guns but not a good idea on others. Wall thickness will vary depending on the pressure too so work your way up the chain by first answering the cal, firearm and purpose questions. That way you can get more informative answers from others.

Hope that helps
Frank

[TCCrewchief76]

Thanks Frank. The caliber will be 300 Whisper, and I'll be using it only for subsonic loads. The barrel length is gonna be 10.5", and it will be going on an AR. I have a giant lathe and mill, and have a decent amount of experience using both. Did I forget anything?

Respectfully,

Kevin

[TCCrewchief76]

Originally Posted by Spook

perhaps a better place to ask :http://www.silencertests.com/silencer-forum/

The site won't let me register with my hotmail account. Is there any way for the administrator or moderator to bypass this requirement?

Thanks a bunch,

Kevin

[WhisperFan]

Kevin,

Try:

http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/index.php

I use a hotmail account there

Check out the Silencersmithing forum. .400" is plenty big enough for the bore diameter. Remember - the more accurate the threads on the barrel and the mount on the suppressor, the tighter the bore can be. The tighter the bore is, generally speaking, the quieter the suppressor will be.

A rule of thumb for Form 1 suppressor builders is that there is a trade-off of sorts. You can have a small lightweight can, if you know what you are doing. Or if you are an 07/SOT and you can experiment. But a Form 1 does not allow you to try, destroy and try again. So you really have one chance to get it right. It is much easier to get something you will be happy with if you have a larger volume. The more volume, the quieter the can.

6061 AL is fine for a dedicated 300 Whisper can. A wall thickness of .065" is fine. You can probably get by with a .048" wall, but I wouldn't go much thinner.

If it were me, I would build a 30 caliber can out of stainless that you use for a .308 or 30.06 and still use on a Whisper. Much more versatile suppressor. Even if you don't have a .308 you want to suppress, you may want to sometime in the future.

In stainless, I like 304 for the tube (it welds nice) and 303 for the internals, it machines better. .065" will still handle a full house center-fire rifle but it will be good for a Whisper too.

[TCCrewchief76]

I can't view the forums without registering, and I can't register with a hotmail account. How'd you bypass that measure?

Kevin

[Artful]

email rsilvers on this board - he's the owner of the other board or
PM me your hotmail and I'll pass it along over there.