New to 300/221 and to reloading, could use some help.

[alorton]

Ok, I'm new to reloading and to the 300/221. I wanted a suppressed AR and the 300/221 seemed like the best game in town. I've been lurking on this board (and AR15.com) for quite some time and have posted a few questions. I've picked up parts and equipment over time as my budget would allow. Here's what I have:

Upper:
ASA Side charger
Noveske 10.5" 300FB barrel (pistol gas port position)
Paladin Machine 3-position gas block
YHM free float custumizable tube
RRA complete lower (w/SBR stamp)

The rifle is done. I purchased the barrel used and it came with about 100 once fired brass cases. I have 100 240gr SMK's and 1lb of Lil Gun and 1lb of AA1680 coming (figured I'd try both). My YHM 7.62 suppressor is in and I'm just waiting on the ATF to finish with my paperwork to pick it up.

I have purchased a Lee 4 hole turret press, a Redding 300/221 3 die set, and a Redding form and trim die.The Lee press came as a "kit" with a case trimmer, powder measure, case chamfer tool, etc. I also have a chronograph to check muzzle velocity.

I want to make 300/221 brass from .223 brass. The Redding form and trim die didn't come with any instructuctions. How do you use that?

As far as I can tell, getting a Forster power trimmer is a good way to trim .223 brass for this application (hand trimmer would take forever). What collet and pilot should I use? I assume the same collet and pilot as for 223 but will the case start to chatter once I get to the shoulder and the inside diameter expands? Is there a better option? (I won't be making brass by the thousands, but would like to have several hundred)

Since the SMK's have no cannelure does that mean I can't crimp them? Everything I read says not to crimp uncannelured bullets but I'm concerned about uncrimped bullets in an AR.

Is there any other equipment I should look at? Any good loads to start with for my application and the two listed powders? Recommended case trim length (I saw the 1.355" thread but the brass I got with the barrel measures 1.365") and recommended loaded overall length? What velocity should I go for in normal conditions to make sure I stay subsonic, even into the single digit temps? Any other tips for a beginnig reloader or a beginner to the 300/221 (both apply and any advice is appreciated)?

Sorry for the noob questions and thanks in advance.

[RobRat]

Originally Posted by alorton

I want to make 300/221 brass from .223 brass. The Redding form and trim die didn't come with any instructuctions. How do you use that?

As far as I can tell, getting a Forster power trimmer is a good way to trim .223 brass for this application (hand trimmer would take forever). What collet and pilot should I use? I assume the same collet and pilot as for 223 but will the case start to chatter once I get to the shoulder and the inside diameter expands? Is there a better option? (I won't be making brass by the thousands, but would like to have several hundred)

I've only prepped 100 cases so far, but here is how I did it. I bought a Harbor Freight Mini Cut off saw (per a members suggestion in another thread-I just used the vice on it, but am working on a jig to make it more repeatable and hold the case better), and cut the 223 cases off a little bit behind the shoulder. Then I lubed the case with Imperial Sizing wax, and ran it up into the 300/221 sizing die. Then I trim the cases to length with a Lee handheld case trimmer, powered by an electric screwdriver. The Lee trimmer is the one with the stem that goes through the flashhole.

Its better to cut off as much case as you can before your final trim to length, there is a LOT of case to trim off otherwise.

[alorton]

Well, I received instructions for the Redding Form and Trim die and they were straightforward except if I follow them it looks like they are set for a trim to length of 1.4", which if I understand correctly is a dangerous thing to do right?

[Fritzcat]

Go ahead and trim to 1.355, I have the Redding 2 die set and form die and every round has chambered easy.

[RobRat]

One other thing to consider is Loaded Neck Diameter. You need to know what your neck ID of the chamber is, and make sure you're 0.002"-0.003" smaller than that with your loaded rounds. (maybe someone could chime in here- -in the benchrest world we try to get down to 0.0015" of neck clearance, but is 2-3 thousandths enough in an AR chamber? is it actually more?)

If your neck ID is too tight, and it restricts the bullet from releasing, it could cause an overpressure situation, resulting in damage, harm, injury and all that bad stuff.

When you make a case from expanding a 221 fireball up to 30 cal, the resulting neck is a whole lot thinner than necking the remains of a 223 case down to 30 cal.

I would suggest taking the rifle to a 'smith, and having a chamber cast made, so you know your dimensions. You may need to neck turn your brass if the neck ID of your chamber is too tight. Sometimes Wildcats can bite!

[Fritzcat]

Look at Sierra Load Data, it has a list for 220gr SMK and 240gr SMK. I first run my cases threw the form die, use a 4"grinder with a 1/16" disk clamped in a vise to cut case, inside chamfer with a drill press, RCBS Power Trimmer with 3-way head COL 1.355, size in Redding FL Die, then hand prime. So for all fit well.