.300 Whisper Feed Ramps

[abyssdncr]

I've read a few places of folks modifying their AR15 feed ramps for proper feeding and curious what "proper" feed ramps actually are for this cartridge.

Does any of the membership out there have SSK or Noveske barrels that could post photos of the feed ramps in their barrels?

I'm wrapping up my pistol build and have to pull the barrel one more time for Duracoat and wanted to dress the ramps as appropriate while I have it out. Previously, I've used the barrel solely for supersonic 125 & 155 loads and while I haven't had any feed issues with SP or polymer tipped slugs, I'd like to "feel" better about having it set up right.

Appreciate any input.

Thanks

[320pf]

Originally Posted by abyssdncr

I've read a few places of folks modifying their AR15 feed ramps for proper feeding and curious what "proper" feed ramps actually are for this cartridge.

Does any of the membership out there have SSK or Noveske barrels that could post photos of the feed ramps in their barrels?

I'm wrapping up my pistol build and have to pull the barrel one more time for Duracoat and wanted to dress the ramps as appropriate while I have it out. Previously, I've used the barrel solely for supersonic 125 & 155 loads and while I haven't had any feed issues with SP or polymer tipped slugs, I'd like to "feel" better about having it set up right.

Appreciate any input.

Thanks

I have tried both Remington 165 and speer 165 with the exposed lead tip and they also feed well in my rifle, with standard feed ramps

I would way that if your rifle and mags are feeding, by definition it IS set up right.

320pf

[Pitt300]

I've had more trouble w/feeding problems from cheap mags.
Since I've switched to PMags all feeding issues have stopped.
If you shoot the 220s, Take out the bullet leveler, spring & base plate & lay the mag on its side & file away the front bullet rib on both sides so the bullets will go in & stay straight in the mag.
Then you may also be able to load to a longer OAL which should help accuracy.
I would label this mag "220s" as when I load my shorter COAL 125s the bullets do not want to sit against the back of the mag w/the ribs gone.

[abyssdncr]

Thanks for the input x2.

I guess I was planning on at least knocking the sharp edges off the lower three lugs to keep them from scoring the bullets, but with over 500 rounds down the tube with no FTF malfunctions, I guess it can't be set up too poorly.

I've only used older GI 20 round mags, most because I've only shot this at the bench or deer hunting, but I'll definitely keep a close eye on the front lips as I move out to heavier slugs.

I'm toying with the ideal of coloring this one foilage green, so it's good to hear that the Pmags function nicely.

Thanks again!

[kurtz]

I have SSK built rifles and Noveske barrels....nothing "special" with the feed ramps on either...the SSK is the least "modern" of the two its ramps are narrow and the receiver squares off with the ramps, no taper....but works great, with the right mags!!!!

+1 on if it aint broke don't fix it and on taking the rib out of the pmags as Pitt300 suggested, works great to tune the magazine for this cartridge....I do the same just a little different....I use 11/16" bedding tool....disassemble the mag, hold the mag body vertical insert and pull down the bedding tool a few times and it cuts out both ribs at the same time....works great on the 20 and 30 round pmags....I had been milling the first few inches of the rib out of the metal mags as SSK does on their rifles...seems to work well also....but the file or bedding tool on the pmags is pretty easy and fast...

kurtz

[Cornholio]

Sweet tips! I need to get some P-Mags!