Wow. Phrobis, lancay, buck, ontario?
 

Just recently wanted to add an m9 to my Ar and was amazed of the variations. There are so many variations of the M9 and the scabbard my head is swimming. I spent 3 hours reading all the topics and am still baffled as the one to buy. I want a sturdy mutli-purpose weapon to use as if need in a survival scenerio. I won't be in combat anytime soon but with the way things are that could change in an instant. Whats your opinion? Stainless, bead blasted or black finish? Exended length scabbard? With or without wire cutter stop? With or without sharpening stop? With or without pouch? Seems there is pros and cons for both. I want to buy one soon and really have no idea as to which one to even look for. BTW I have a bushmaster XM15 with a Spike's 16" M4 with M73 Surefire Handguard, magpul Ctr stock, acog TA31Doc.
Regards,
Ken

Hello and welcome!
I would suggest you to look for a Phrobis M9.
This is absolutely the best quality you can get for both the bayonet and scabbard.
Take a look at ebay, as there are many auctions for genuine army surplus Phrobis M9s in almost mint condition for affordable prices.

If I'm not mistaken, you'll have a problem with mounting an M9 or M7 on the 16" M4. The bayonet lug to flash hider length is too long and the muzzle ring on the bayonet will be flopping around on the barrel behind the flash hider.

You are correct. I just picked up a 1987 phrobis/buck 188> today. From the tip of the muzzle to the bayonet lug it is 8 inches. This leaves three inches of blade under my barrel. Why do m4's have. Bayonet lug if it doesn't match up? Is there a fix for this other then buying a 20" barrel? Is there a boot on ring adapter to mount on my barrel to take up the slack. If not I may have a spike's tactical and a bushmaster xm15 1/9 twist for sale. The scabbard is a phrobis (marked with a dolphin) just under the sharpening stone. It did not have a pouch and it has a yellow warning printed on the scabbard warning about the cutting line. Is this the correct scabbard? Lastly is the buck/phrobis as good as quality of the phrobis? I know it sYs the 188 was made for commercial use. Thanks for all your help

there are long gripped M9's and M7's purpose made for long barraled M16's but not military. the bayonet lug is as it is a standard fitting not for use, the last thing you would want as a soldier is a long barrel on an assault weapon, kinda defeats the purpose. Most of the long barrel weapons are to give heavier barrels to allow the weapon to be used more as a light machine gun and support (for sustained auto fire). If your support weapons need bayonets you are int he s**t and the fact that the thing slops around a bit is really material.

At least thats my understanding

Of course if its a civialian weapon the bayonet stud is there to make it look good for those who want to pose!

I figured being that my m4 having a 16" barrel the bayonet would stick further out and that the bayonet ring would be on the compensator. On a standard m16a2 what is the length from the end of the muzzle the the bayonet lug? What is the diameter of the barrel at that point where the bayonet contacts?

Posted: 12/25/2010 4:00:02 AM CET AR15.COM
Originally Posted By 68_Mustang:

You will need an adapter for a carbine.

Bayonets work on 20" rifle, 16" mid, and 14.5" carbine. adapter needed for 16" carbine. This is what I`ve read anyway.
Under : M7 Bayonet with adapt. ...



http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/7677/bayoadapt.jpg

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And THIS, USMC BAYO ONTARIO OKC / See all the vidéo: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ED98qw_tptI

I guess I have a lot to learn about the AR platform. Even with an adapter due to the length of the end of the barrel to the bayonet lug I will only have 4 inches of blade exposed past the muzzle. Can anyone tell me what the purpose of the 1" of necked down area on the carbine barrel?