http://www.swannysmodels.com/Blackenit.html

Should work

Hornady tap anyone.

It might as well be made of unicorn horn.

:grin:
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...UnicornCat.jpg

Almost the same thing.

I used a camp stove and a big stainless pot.

I add 8-10 tablespoons to a gallon of hot water.

Keep the water around 110-120 degrees, no hotter. Very important. You do not want to anneal your brass.

Let the brass soak for 20-30 minutes or until you are happy with the depth of color. Rinse with hot water and then cold water. Be 100% sure to get the brass completely dry before storing it.

I have done 300 WTF, 223 AI, 308 and 338 Lapua. I am not planning on doing it ever again. Waaay to stinky. You think a pile of deer or elk guts stinks? They dont hold a candle to this stuff.

If I was to do it again, it would be at the range when nobody is around and wearing a respirator.

So if you blacken your brass *and* then use moly coated bullets and you have complete ninja ammo.

Thank you for the 'how-to'!

Yo thats blacktical.:grin: I have stained brass and bullets with Tool Black. The container says it for ferrous metal but it worked.

Have any pics? Is there any danger to skin contact? AND, does it come off when tumble cleaning after shooting. Also, have you noticed any problem with the inside contacting the powder - what I mean is - is there any potential problem with this blackening coating affecting the powder in the case?

Thanks, this does sound like a little WOW factor in play.

The last thing I'd want is blackened brass. It's hard enough to find in the grass in bright sunlight when it has a high polish. Maybe a 300 WTF needs black brass, but if your enemies (or game) can notice flashes from your ejected brass they're TOO DAMN CLOSE! There are some advantages to a 7mm STW or 338 Norma Mag.

Just my humble opinion...

I was thinking that the black would show up better on the caliche ground that I'm normally shooting on making brass pick up much easier.