Quarterbore's Forums - whats the cheapest way to go about a bolt gun build?

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- - whats the cheapest way to go about a bolt gun build? (http://www.quarterbore.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4377)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Titleiiredneck (Post 23933)

Contact spook on here since he does the sako extractor thing, and no I wouldnt tackle a remington 700. You can go the savage route and do it yourself, although you will probally have to modify it to make it work. I dunno about this idea but someone may help answer this. Will the new centerfeed actions run a whisper without having to modify the mag springs ect, especially if its a detachable mag?

So essentially the Savage is the modular bolt action like the AR is the modular semi-auto. I like that idea, but I don't want a gun with extraction issues either. Is there any common mod to the Savage that will solve this problem?

Quote:

Originally Posted by alorton (Post 23937)

no :rolleyes:

From what I've seen, there isn't a problem with extraction in the first place. Find out how much your gunsmith charges to install a barrel on a Remington, and also to get the extraction to work. Here is what you will need to install your own barrel on a Savage:

Barrel nut wrench: $30
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...tnumber=288765

Action wrench: $55
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...tnumber=710783

I'm willing to bet it is cheaper to buy the tools and do it yourself. You can pick up a Stevens 200 for <$300, remove the factory barrel, and install a 30/221 barrel in a matter of minutes.

I'm considering a bolt 300W too.

Please confirm this: I purchase a Savage 10, 110, or Stevens in .223 and then use the two tools listed above to swap out the barrel and then verify the head space?

What are the suggested sources for the 300W barrel?

Thanks in advance,

Rob

Quote:

Originally Posted by robrob (Post 23961)

you really don't need that action wrench. I build an action "holder" out of aluminum that the action sits in. I clamp the action in the vise, and use the nut wrench to remove the nut. The headspace is set with a sized case inserted into the chamber of the rifle, and tightened on the bolt (minus the extractor and ejector, which will give false indications during headspacing). Once the barrel stops turning into the action, the barrel nut is LIGHTLY snugged up. Remember the anti-seize on the barrel threads. I set my barrels for zero headspace. I do this by opening the bolt and turning the barrel in on the action and testing the HS by closing the bolt. I do this with a sized case from my dies. It ends up being a perfect fit of die adjustment and headspace. I set the barrel in until, when I close the bolt, I can feel just the slightest amount of resistance. The "go-to" source for all things Savage is Fred Moreo at Sharpshooter Supply

www.sharpshootersupply.com

The only undesirable thing about Fred's Whisper barrel, is that the fastest twist rate listed is 10".

I have bought my Savage barrels from PacNor. It'll cost a little more, but you get a true match grade barrel from them.

www.pac-nor.com/

HTH,

Kevin

Thanks for the great info Kevin.

Well I've read enough about the Savage to want to give it a try so I ordered a Stevens 200 in .223 for $289 NIB. I'm gonna tinker with it to see if I like the platform and decide from there if I wanna put a Whisper barrel on it. If so, and if the barrels are as easy to change as I've read, I'll keep the .223 barrel as well. I'll just have to be careful to keep my loaded ammo for the Savage separate as every other gun I have is chambered for 5.56 NATO and my handloads may be too hot for the bolt gun.