going from 5.56 to 300-221
 

How do I go from 5.56 brass to 300-221 brass? I would think someone has written this up, but maybe not.

I am not a wildcater, but I am experianced in reloading.

Using .223 brass (I like Winchester)
Deprime (I prefer to deprime all brass using a universal depriming tool)
Resize
Trim to length
Prime
Load
Repeat:smile:

http://www.quarterbore.net/forums/at...1&d=1176518698

DonT

The link doesn't work.

I assume #3 is resize from 223 to 300-221.
If this is true, how do I trim?
I have a Wilson case trimmer setup for 308. I don't see a Wilson cartridge holder for 300-221.

Not sure how the wilson works, myself I use a 9" south bend lathe with a collet setup and stop. Makes pretty quick work of of trimming. I use a cutoff blade to get it close then switch to the lee trimmer. I used the 7.62X39 cutter and spud and ground the pin that goes thru the firing pin hole till I got the length I needed. I also had to turn the outside of the spud a bit as it was pretty tight in the case mouth since 7.62X39 is .311 dia. I think.

DonT:smile:

Are you telling me I need to get a

RCBS Trim Pro Power Case Trimmer Kit 110 Volt ?

Or is there a better option?

I am planning on going this route myself after having gone from .221 and necking up. Don's idea of using a lathe is what I plan on using too and I am looking to make a shell holder that can stuff the lathe trimmed case into my Dillon RT1200 .308 case trimmer for the final trim. I will set-up on my .50 press to make sure I have clearance. Anybody try something like this yet? Maybe a shouldered collet in the lathe would allow you to skip the final trim and hold tolerance? I ordered some from Mr. Davis to get me going, but I need a bunch being a machinegunner. I plan on this being my subgun round.

Here's how I do it. I believe that this is a pretty simple process if you already reload and know how to trim cases to length.

1) I lock a new piece of Win 223 brass in my Hornady case trimmer. I use a hacksaw and cut the 223 case right behind the shoulder. I have a cut piece of metal tube that I slip over the case while it is held in the case trimmer so it is easy to cut in the same spot each time. Without this, some cases were having to be trimmed too much or if they were accidently cut short, I had to toss them.

2) I lightly go over the case mouth with a deburring tool to take some of the hacksaw damage away. It looks like a straight wall case at this point.

3) I lube the case and full length size it in my 300W die.

4) I take the sized case and put it in my case trimmer and trim it back to the proper length and debur the mouth.

The case is now ready to prime and load and fire. I have done hundreds and hundreds of 300W cases this way and have never had a problem. Using brand new cases makes the reforming process easier that fired brass.

or you could just buy a bunch from ebay, they are cheap.

Jarhead1086.

Actually I have a collet holder for my lathe with a stop that I use for the initial trim. To get consistency I prefer to use the 7.62x39 lee case trimmer trimming down the pin and the outside dia for the .300. Then I use the lee shell holder used with their trimmer to hold the shell. I chuck the cutter in the lathe and the brass in the holder and its off to the races.

DonT

I have been using a spare small mill to trim mine. It has a small vice mounted with a center notch in the jaws so I took a Lee .223 Rem lock stud and drill a small hole in the side of it and installed a small handle. Mounted it in the vice and you just insert the case into the lock stud (case holder) and rotate handle about a half turn and it locks the case in. Drop a 1/2" mill end cutter down on it to preset height and case is done. You actually do have to hold tension on the lock stud handle while cutting to keep the vibration from unlocking the case.