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d.hauser
12-22-2005, 04:46 AM
well i have been lurking here for a while and deciding what i should do. your site is very very helpful. and i would like to say thanks to you all. quarterbore, i dont live to far from you, i live in lehighton. which is close to allentown/reading. maybe we could meet up someday. i think i will take the plunge into ak building. and i plan to use the screw method on the builds i do. i am going to sign up for your jig rental. and get a couple of the 89 dollar romainian kits. and maybe a under folder. i am a class a-1 maintenance tech. for clover farms dairy in reading. so the skills are ther to do these builds. i was originaly looking into building fn-fals, but they cost a bit more then i would like to spend. so ak`s here i come :). i plan on making shooters. and am not to concerned about the correctness of the first ones i do. i need to learn what i need to do to make a sbr though, all the legal stuff that is, i saw someplace that made a cover, it was a piece that would clamp on over the front of the gas tube and had a sight built into it. it had that squared off look to it, but i cant find the site that had it. any help???? is the best place to get flats tapco? i am planning on making a heavy barreled ak, but its just in the thinking stage now. with the barrel being the same diameter as whats inserted into the trunion. thats just an idea though let me know if it sounds stupid please. ok well thats enough for now...............OH..........do you recomend flats with or without trunion holes? and if you would leave the frount trunion and the barrel together and just attach it to the new reciever how close would your headspace be to being ok. from what i can see you adjust your headspace by pressing the barrel in or out, is that correct? thanks in advance for your answers.................yeeeeehaaawwww :ak47:

Quarterbore
12-22-2005, 08:25 AM
:welcome:

The combination gas/sight blocks work well but obviously you need to cut down the barrel and turn the barrel down so that the gas block will fit where you want it and then you need to drill a new gas port.

The next thing you need to decide is if you are leaving the barrel in the trunion or not. Personally, I would want the barrel pulled even if you paid someone a couple bucks to do it for you. With the barrel out locating the front trunion holes is easy with a handy little tool that I will be making and selling here soon... The design is simple but you will see.

So, with the tool I much prefer flats with no trunion rivet holes. I have had too many flats that seem to be off otherwise.

As for headspacing, you want to check things before you screw it all together... if it is off, you need to fix it before it is all bolted together....

d.hauser
12-23-2005, 02:15 AM
the gas block sight thing was juat a cover that would go over the original slanted gas block. lets hear more on your hole locating tool.....we have a big press at work i could use to press out the barrels. what do i have to go through to make a legal sbr?

Wrangler
12-23-2005, 11:42 AM
Here is how I did it. I too a piece of pipe hanget and bent it into a flat u shape and drilled through the sandwich. Then i put a small selftapping sheet metal screw into one side that acts to locate the inside hole. The outside hole is located where the other half indicates on the outside. Not original, I saw it done somewhere but it sure works. Cheaper than dirt.

Quarterbore
12-23-2005, 05:26 PM
My version of the front trunion hole locator is here:

http://quarterbore.com/images/amdbuild4/amdbuild-4-riveting1-66.html

I had a bugger of a time finding tweezers that would work but I bought a bunch to make up and sell... These are the only way to do a front trunion now that I have one!

Wrangler
12-23-2005, 11:00 PM
That is pretty neat. How much you plan on charging? Works on the rear too I bet.

Quarterbore
12-23-2005, 11:34 PM
They would only work for rear trunions where you can get to the inside of the trunion like we do with the front. I know SOME rear runions you could use this to do one of the two holes but most reat trunions use the long rivets and they have solid trunions that run with width of the receiver.

I made up 15 of the tools tonight and I am going to see them for $10/each + $2 for shipping CONUS. Ends up I lost about five more because of issues with drilling and/or tapping and the stainless steel is pretty tough on the drill bit and tap. I also had to pay a little more for the little tweezers then I had planned...

here they are if you want one:

http://www.quarterbore.net/forums/showthread.php?t=698