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View Full Version : what are the basics for 300?


Recusance
04-10-2011, 08:54 PM
I have a couple of 300 fireball guns and I am having some trouble getting them to run.

so rather than bring up all my issues (for now) can you post some basics that pertain to 300 specifically?

I have lots of 5.56 guns that I have no problem getting to run, but there is something about the wisper that is getting me puzzled.

my guns are accurate, but all of them seem to be single shots or will only half cycle with not enough power to even eject the spent round.

all have adjustable gas blocks (wide open) and standard buffers. oneeven has the gas port opened up on the barrel.

what am I missing?

Retooferab
04-10-2011, 10:19 PM
The position of the gas block on the barrel has alot to do with it. The powder you use also has something to do with it.

Recusance
04-10-2011, 11:12 PM
ok, pistol position gas block 125 gr corbon 300 wisper ammunition 10.5 inch barrel.

I think I might have one gun figured out though I think the gas block is not aligned and no gas is getting through.

Code_4
04-11-2011, 12:12 AM
ok, pistol position gas block 125 gr corbon 300 wisper ammunition 10.5 inch barrel.

I think I might have one gun figured out though I think the gas block is not aligned and no gas is getting through.

Sort of had this issue. My block was lining up, but was just a little off. The result led to me getting enough gas on some powders to cycle, but on other loads(that work in similar guns) no dice. I finally got her lined up perfect and now my rifle runs great. I am able to run the "lighter" quieter powders and the 300 WTF cycles and BHO.

i8asquirrel
04-11-2011, 01:49 AM
lighten you buffer to around 1100 gr and try it.
I run a 16" barrel with a pistol position gas port drilled to .116" It runs great with subs and full speed loads!:grin:

LouBoyd
04-11-2011, 03:06 AM
The easiest way I've found to align a gas block on a barrel is by sound. With the barrel removed from the upper receiver and with the bolt and carrier removed, cover the muzzle with a finger and blow air though the barrel from the chamber. The position is like blowing a trumpet but not trying to produce a tone. The sound of the hiss of the air coming out of the gas tube is very sensitive to how well the barrel and gas block holes are aligned. Clamp the block when you find the small "flat spot" in the sound of the hiss in both the axis of rotation the block around the barrel and moving it fore to aft.

Do others use this method? When I first assembled AR's I tried other methods using careful measurements or small pins in the ports which work but they took special tools, were much slower, and were less reliable for getting good alignment.

rsilvers
04-11-2011, 09:05 AM
My method is to look at the pin holes or set-screw dimples through the respective holes in the gas block.

Recusance
04-11-2011, 10:03 AM
Sort of had this issue. My block was lining up, but was just a little off. The result led to me getting enough gas on some powders to cycle, but on other loads(that work in similar guns) no dice. I finally got her lined up perfect and now my rifle runs great. I am able to run the "lighter" quieter powders and the 300 WTF cycles and BHO.

I think I have a total blockage, the bolt doesn't even move when fired.

on the other gun (16" bbl, carbine gas block location)I will try the lighter buffer, but I may still need to do some tweekage on the gas block.

Code_4
04-11-2011, 11:12 AM
I think I have a total blockage, the bolt doesn't even move when fired.

on the other gun (16" bbl, carbine gas block location)I will try the lighter buffer, but I may still need to do some tweekage on the gas block.

Sounds like a good place to start. The method above where you blow air into the barrel to find the "sweet" spot of the gas block is how I do it as well. I just put a dummy round in the chamber and blow air down the barrel while I set the gas block.

Recusance
04-30-2011, 11:44 AM
well, I feel like a complete idiot......
as this is my first time with useing a adjustable gas block I found out my problem.

I didn't have the adjusting screw backed out NEARLY enough.

I was under the assumption that a few turns was all I needed.

turns out the screw needs to be backed out almost 1/4 inch of visible threads.

now I am worried of losing the screw, are there any tips on keeping the screw in place so it doesn't fall out?

LouBoyd
04-30-2011, 12:23 PM
well, now I am worried of losing the screw, are there any tips on keeping the screw in place so it doesn't fall out?

Depends on how your specific gas block is designed. Could you use a longer screw and put a lock nut on the outside? That might require a bit of machining. Just a single set screw as the regulating valve is not a good design in my opinion. A loose screw is likely to be blown out during firing. If that happens it will return to being a single shot until the screw is replaced.

Spook
04-30-2011, 12:30 PM
Depends on how your specific gas block is designed. Could you use a longer screw and put a lock nut on the outside? That might require a bit of machining. Just a single set screw as the regulating valve is not a good design in my opinion. A loose screw is likely to be blown out during firing. If that happens it will return to being a single shot until the screw is replaced.


Lou, you just solved a problem I was having, Thanks :grin:

Hoser
04-30-2011, 01:00 PM
now I am worried of losing the screw, are there any tips on keeping the screw in place so it doesn't fall out?

Measure exactly how much of the screw is sticking out the top.

Remove that much from the *bottom* of the set screw. Put the screw back in and test fire it.

If it still runs, break out the red or green lock-tite.

cpd23
04-30-2011, 01:08 PM
Blue Loctite works great I have about the same amount sticking out and hae not had an issue with it since.

Recusance
04-30-2011, 06:08 PM
Blue Loctite works great I have about the same amount sticking out and hae not had an issue with it since.

even if the gas block gets hot?

I thought blue locktight was easy to melt and reduce holding power.

as far as red or green I still need to be able to move it when I need to.

perm attach is not an option.

Alleycat
04-30-2011, 07:48 PM
http://www.amazon.com/Flexbar-15015-R4-Hi-Temp-Rocksett-Adhesive/dp/B0025PMIFS

sha-ul
05-01-2011, 12:52 AM
even if the gas block gets hot?

I thought blue locktight was easy to melt and reduce holding power.

as far as red or green I still need to be able to move it when I need to.

perm attach is not an option.

I can tell you that if you use Green Loctite, without a torch you are NOT getting it apart.

Recusance
05-01-2011, 10:18 AM
I can tell you that if you use Green Loctite, without a torch you are NOT getting it apart.

thanks.

not what I want for sure.