Need Input On My New 300 "whatever" Rifle

[Code_4]

Ok this thing has got me baffled. It sounds loud as hell to me and I would like some input on what you peeps think.

Here is the gun:
10" 300 blackout barrel
Pistol gas with Paladin Machine Block
FailZero BCG, Ranier Upper
Can is a Liberty Black Raven II

I am running 11.5 grains of AA1680 with 220 SMK at 1050fps. Gun runs great with ejecting and BHO working on last round.

The thing sounds loud as hell to me even when I am standing away from it. I have never heard another 300 "whatever" so I have no basis. I guess I am comparing it to my Sub 308 bolt gun and the same can. There is a hell of a pop on the semi auto and does not feel hearing safe to me. Also if I shut the gas totally off it seems even louder...wtf?

Anyway if you have any input let me know. The YT Channel below has the vids of the 300 "whatever" and my 308 bolt gun with Subs and Supers. Same shitty Droid video camera about 10 foot away.

http://www.youtube.com/user/Code9mm?feature=mhum

[ds762]

videos are hard to tell over the net sometimes ..

I'll bet you are getting action noise along with your loads being "on the edge" of going supersonic.

I have no experiance with that powder as I try to use H110 whenever possible .. its what works for me.

my honest suggestion would be to try different powders and different powder charges.

sorry I cant offer more help.

[Code_4]

videos are hard to tell over the net sometimes ..

I'll bet you are getting action noise along with your loads being "on the edge" of going supersonic.

I have no experiance with that powder as I try to use H110 whenever possible .. its what works for me.

my honest suggestion would be to try different powders and different powder charges.

sorry I cant offer more help.
I hear you on videos not being great. I am using a chrony so I know where the loads are shooting. They are staying well below subsonic.
I have already tried 2 other powders. H110 and 4227. Neither will cycle the rifle in the subsonic range. They all have they same sound when fired. It is really a shot pop sound and not out in front with a super crack.

[ds762]

I hear you on videos not being great. I am using a chrony so I know where the loads are shooting. They are staying well below subsonic.
I have already tried 2 other powders. H110 and 4227. Neither will cycle the rifle in the subsonic range. They all have they same sound when fired. It is really a shot pop sound and not out in front with a super crack.

just brainstorming ..

what velocities are you getting through the chrono?
what powder charges have you tried?
have you tried a different suppressor? I know Liberty makes good stuff just thinking out loud.

something is not right .. hopefully with enough info we can (as a forum) get you headed in the right direction.

[Code_4]

I am in the 1020 to 1040 range. I started at 12.5 and worked down to that load. My 9mm can would work, but it's threaded 1/2x28 so I need an adapter. I know the Liberty can is pellet gun quiet with my 18" .308 sending 160FTX's with Trailboss.

[Retooferab]

Try reducing your charge. A few tenths less will not change the velocity much and if you run them around a 1000 fps it will quieten down some 1680 seemed louder in my ar also. I am using N110 and AA9 now.

[Spook]

lighter charge,faster powder :smile: unless your gas port is in the carbine position....

[Code_4]

lighter charge,faster powder :smile: unless your gas port is in the carbine position....

I am in the pistol port. If I can not get H110 or A4227 to cycle what would you recommend? I was thinking N110 as my next step...unless anyone has other thoughts.

[Spook]

I am in the pistol port. If I can not get H110 or A4227 to cycle what would you recommend? I was thinking N110 as my next step...unless anyone has other thoughts.

N110 is really good, Enforcer,#9, I've also used Power Pistol, and SR-4756 (not9) in 10.5" barrels with pretty good result... H-110 not so much good result.

[buffetdestroyer]

Make sure your gas block & tube are tight. You may be leaking a little bit of gas out of there that creates a louder impulse sound.

Note that the shorter barrel is going to be louder than your 18" barrel, and the action noise of the AR will contribute somewhat to what you are hearing. My .300 WTF is nowhere near as quiet as my suppressor is on a .308 bolt action with a long barrel and subloads, but it can put a lot more rounds down range and is much lighter and easier to carry.

As others have stated, powder will affect the sound and the faster the burn rate, the less your suppressor will have to minimize since the idea is to have the powder fully burned before the bullet reaches the suppressor. Alliant 2400 and N110 are what I use for my pet loads. I wasn't happy with the accuracy of AA1680.

If you can Chrony your loads, you will take a lot of the guesswork out of your rig if it is just on the transonic cusp.

How do you like the Fail Zero?

[snipecatcher]

If it's pistol position with Paladin gas block, you may try 2400. It is faster than the others, and cycles my rifle w/out a suppressor, which is set up the same as yours.

Also, Spook, I sen you a PM.

[Code_4]

Make sure your gas block & tube are tight. You may be leaking a little bit of gas out of there that creates a louder impulse sound.

Alliant 2400 and N110 are what I use for my pet loads.

How do you like the Fail Zero?

I am going to loctite up the gasblock. I do have a little leakage around it as it does not fit super snug. I am going to get some A2400 and N110 to try out.

So far the Fail Zero carrier seems nice. It is the re-branded one by Spikes. Time will tell if it is worth the extra coin or not...cool factor is definitely up there.

I like the overall length of my 300 WTF right now with the short barrel. My can is long at 10" so any longer and she gets unwieldy. I guess I need to drop my expectations a little. Hopefully the powder changes will calm me down.

Thanks for all the advice guys...I appreciate it.

[ohnomrbillk]

What size is your gas port?

[Code_4]

What size is your gas port?

I believe Arron at DeltaCompany made it .115. I never measured it before I put it all together. I am taking the block off to reseal it and I will get a measurement when I do.

[Code_4]

Ok here is my updates. Measured Gas port and it's .110. I checked and rechecked my gas block alignment...it's good. I picked up Alliant 2400 powder. It will not cycle it. I ran 10 grains of 2400 and it yielded me 1300FPS avg....without BHO or cycling. Does that seem weird to anyone?

So basically I have used A1680 and it works, but blows my ear drums up. 4227, 2400, H110 all will not BHO or cycle the gun at Subsonic velocities. I have not purchased N110 yet. It is going to cost me a shit load since I have to order it and pay hazmat. Plus I am thinking if none of these other powders are GTG it will not be either.

My loads are all 2.15" COAL, remington 7.5 primers and Forester Die made brass.

I tried a little lighter bolt and that did not make a difference. Should I try a lighter buffer spring? If so which one and where would I get it? Should I abandon TP555's gas black and go to a JP or PRI adjustable?
Any other ideas.....???

[rsilvers]

Your choices are to use A1680 like the load data I put out, or open your gas port all the way and use H110 or N110. It will be quieter, but you won't be able to shoot full power ammo without hyper cycling the gun. Also it would help to sound meter your silencer compared to some others.

[Code_4]

Your choices are to use A1680 like the load data I put out, or open your gas port all the way and use H110 or N110. It will be quieter, but you won't be able to shoot full power ammo without hyper cycling the gun. Also it would help to sound meter your silencer compared to some others.
Would TP's block at Half gas prevent the "hyper cycling" you are referring to? Nice edit on the can....

[TCCrewchief76]

Are you using a rifle length buttstock? There's definitely something going on if your port is that large, and you aren't cycling with 2400 at those charges.
Is the bolt even moving? Perhaps you have the gas block in the incorrect position?

Kevin

[Code_4]

Are you using a rifle length buttstock? There's definitely something going on if your port is that large, and you aren't cycling with 2400 at those charges.
Is the bolt even moving? Perhaps you have the gas block in the incorrect position?

Kevin
It is a carbine stock. I have tried all the settings on the block and the one I am using gives the most movement of the bolt. With 2400 it would move about half way back. Below is what she looks like.

http://birdsword.com/PICS%20FOR%20IMG/300%20Blackout.JPG

[snipecatcher]

Strange. My 10" barrel, despite the other problems has cycled just about everything. I've used 2400 powder, and I've used 110 grain bullets at subsonic velocities, and all cycle. This was with no muzzle device. In fact, it was cycling with a bit too much authority, so I added a heavy buffer. With the heavier buffer, it will still cycle sub loads with VVN110 about 90% of the time with no muzzle device, and 100% with a Noveske Pig.

EDIT: Ask TP555 what he drills his gas ports to. I didn't write it down, but off the top of my head, I think it's something like .169.

Regards,
-Dan

[Retooferab]

I would call Mike Milli at Dedicated Technologies and ask him what size port he puts on his. I used his uppers on two that I built and they cycle everything that I stick in it. I am using a paladin gas block. I have a standard buffer spring and a Spikes buffer.

[Code_4]

Ok I just figured it out. I broke her all down and started really looking at it. Turns out TP's block was not lining up quite right with the gas port. The barrel shoulder to port hole is about .255. The block was about .300. So I took some material off the back of block and now it is lining up over the hole perfect. I a pretty sure that was giving me at least a .075 sized port if not smaller.

I wish I would have figured this out before I picked up all those powders...oh well.

Thanks for all the help and input. I will take her out on Wed and see what she does. I will report back then.

[rsilvers]

Ok I just figured it out. I broke her all down and started really looking at it. Turns out TP's block was not lining up quite right with the gas port. The barrel shoulder to port hole is about .255.

That is is not compatible with standard gas blocks.

[TCCrewchief76]

Well that's a first for me...I've never heard of a gas port being off that much. I've heard of M1A's being off a little when you shim up the gas system, but never an AR from the get-go. Weird. Kudos to you for figuring it out!

Kevin

[rsilvers]

It is actually not uncommon though the error is usually less than 0.015. Many makers do not know where the gas port hole is supposed to be. Some of them just measure an existing barrel the best they can, and go with that. The problem is worse for gas-blocks, with I would say most makers putting the hole in the wrong location - confused by copying the M16 front sight gas block, which expects the forearm-holding metal end to be there as a shim between the gas block and the barrel. But with rails, that does not apply. This is an example of something I have commented on before, about how few gunsmiths make proper use of drawings and why I like products that are designed by Engineers and made by actual machinists (who are best to *not* be gunsmiths).

[Code_4]

That is is not compatible with standard gas blocks.
My measurements are probably not spot on. I did not have the right calipers to measure inside the block so I guesstimated it.

I have confidence in both machinists that did my work.

[Code_4]

So I have been looking at Barrel Specs this morning. Correct me if I am wrong. The gas port should be .295 back from the shoulder and the block should be the same? So it looks like the barrel got the port position drilled too short. I am going to let the guy that my barrel know and see what he thinks.

[ds762]

It is actually not uncommon though the error is usually less than 0.015. Many makers do not know where the gas port hole is supposed to be. Some of them just measure an existing barrel the best they can, and go with that. The problem is worse for gas-blocks, with I would say most makers putting the hole in the wrong location - confused by copying the M16 front sight gas block, which expects the forearm-holding metal end to be there as a shim between the gas block and the barrel. But with rails, that does not apply. This is an example of something I have commented on before, about how few gunsmiths make proper use of drawings and why I like products that are designed by Engineers and made by actual machinists (who are best to *not* be gunsmiths).

http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u324/ds762/not_this_shit_again.jpg

[rsilvers]

I have confidence in both machinists that did my work.

They may have done a perfect job if their work matches the drawing. It could just be the drawing which is incorrect. Or there may be no drawing.

[Spook]

It is actually not uncommon though the error is usually less than 0.015. Many makers do not know where the gas port hole is supposed to be. Some of them just measure an existing barrel the best they can, and go with that. The problem is worse for gas-blocks, with I would say most makers putting the hole in the wrong location - confused by copying the M16 front sight gas block, which expects the forearm-holding metal end to be there as a shim between the gas block and the barrel. But with rails, that does not apply. This is an example of something I have commented on before, about how few gunsmiths make proper use of drawings and why I like products that are designed by Engineers and made by actual machinists (who are best to *not* be gunsmiths).

http://usera.ImageCave.com/Spook/beating-a-dead-horse.gif

Dude,Please,Pretty Please if that will help... if not for the sake of your own sanity, do it for the rest of us.

[rsilvers]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXoNE14U_zM

[ohnomrbillk]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXoNE14U_zM

"Oftentimes, to win us to our harm,
The instruments of darkness tell us truths;
Win us with honest trifles, to betray us
In deepest consequence."
William Shakespeare, Macbeth

[ohnomrbillk]

It is actually not uncommon though the error is usually less than 0.015. Many makers do not know where the gas port hole is supposed to be. Some of them just measure an existing barrel the best they can, and go with that. The problem is worse for gas-blocks, with I would say most makers putting the hole in the wrong location - confused by copying the M16 front sight gas block, which expects the forearm-holding metal end to be there as a shim between the gas block and the barrel. But with rails, that does not apply. This is an example of something I have commented on before, about how few gunsmiths make proper use of drawings and why I like products that are designed by Engineers and made by actual machinists (who are best to *not* be gunsmiths).

"A man once defined hell as a place where there is no reason. And you just dragged me into hell."
-Michael Savage

[ds762]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXoNE14U_zM

we can't handle the truth about how you stole someone else's cartridge and then call it your own???

"A man once defined hell as a place where there is no reason. And you just dragged me into hell."
-Michael Savage

and a HUGE +1 to that!

seriously Silvers .. give it a f*cking rest .. we are tired of listening to your AAC propagandist bullsh*t.

[rsilvers]

It is just stuff that I have learned over the years that would have helped me if I knew before.

This is not about AAC - it is the same difference between an AI rifle and a 'custom sniper rifle.'

[BWE Firearms]

Robert,

I do not like to get involved in things like this but enough is enough. I will agree with you that there is a good number of so called gunsmiths that don't have a clue but there is also the same number of engineers that couldn't figure their way out of a wet paper bag. I am the first to admit that I am not an engineer but if I as a gunsmith am as stupid as you think gunsmiths are why do I have a large number of engineers in the firearms industry, aerospace industry among others that call me for help with various projects and they have helped me with projects I have had questions on. I have been surprised on numerous occasions that firearms engineers have not known certain dimensions or information that is common knowledge to most good gunsmiths. I have also seen engineers design things that cant be made how they have designed them.

Plain and simple gunsmiths are gunsmiths not engineers and engineers are engineers not gunsmiths. We both work differently because what we do is different. An engineers designs a firearms from a piece of paper and a gunsmith fixes that firearm when something is wrong with it.

From your statement you want gunsmiths to not only be master gunsmiths but master machinists and engineers. They may all overlap each other but they are all different trades with different ways of approaching the same problem. I don't know of anyone who is a master of all trades. I would love to be a master of all three but I am not. I am a Master Gunsmith and I am trying to become a master machinist and engineer but it will be a long time before I will be satisfied with what I know.

The question I have is if gunsmiths are so stupid why did you come to us for information on the Whisper so you could design the Blackout? When you make statements like you have it makes you look like a arrogant ass and I don't think that is your intension.

[Hoser]

This is not about AAC - it is the same difference between an AI rifle and a 'custom sniper rifle.'

I have a few of them AI rifle things. I just got done getting a new zero on my AX in 243. I sold the cute little 20 inch factory tube.

Without a doubt I dont consider them a custom rifle. Just an off the rack rifle with a custom barrel. Well, not 100% true. My AI in 338 still has the factory barrel.

[i8asquirrel]

The gunsmith I use is a master machinest. Thats why his work is so good. I also like the fact that he is a competive shooter so he Knows what real accurate rifle should be able to do.....

[rsilvers]

I don't expect gunsmiths to be machinists or engineers, or machinists or engineers to be gunsmiths. Quite the opposite. They are each good at what they do and specifically they are not interchangeable.

So if you want to fix a gun, then use a gunsmith. If you want a part made to a drawing, then use a machinist.

Where we seem to disagree is when one picks one over the other. You would probably say that if you want a barrel threaded, to use a gunsmith. I would want it done to a drawing, so I would use a machinist.

You are a gunsmith and a machinist, so you quality for both.

[ds762]

Robert,

Since you are so damned concerned about "spec" .. care to comment on the issue with a gentlemen's Remington/AAC SD whatever rifle listed here :

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=20&t=337480

Sounds to me like Remington f*cked up the threads here and told the guy to pound sand.

I'm waiting for your reply.

[rsilvers]

Griffin cans don't have thread reliefs on them. Maybe he does now, I am not sure.

This is the Remington threading:

http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/5184/img6593small.jpg

Griffin discusses it here (you can post this on AR15 if you wish):

http://www.silencerresearch.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?t=1939

Griffin says:

"Opting for an .093"-.125" or so thread relief may be compatible with more suppressors/muzzle devices on the market. In my opinion more compatibility is a good idea."

Macman wrote:

"Did not think a relief was needed when I threaded two of my rifles last month,as both of the suppressors have a thread relief."

Tornado Technologies, an awesome barrel threading company, said:

"Unless the customer requests it, or we see some reason why not to do it, all .308's we now thread are done the same way as the Remington rifle.

Every major manufacturer that I've seen out there has a relief in their can."

I am not sure why Green0 is saying that AAC's position is that as long as it fits their can, then it is ok. That is not my position. I can take a barrel with or without its own thread relief, but a can certainly should have one. Green0 (Griffin) says Remington should make the barrel compatible with as many cans as possible, but yet he does not make his can compatible with as many barrels as possible.

So why did I not put a thread relief there? I wanted to leave as much material as possible for rigidity. Was that the only way to do it? No, but it was done by design.

[ds762]

Griffin cans don't have thread reliefs on them. Maybe he does now, I am not sure.

Griffin discusses it here (you can post this on AR15 if you wish):



I never once saw a statement made by GreenO admitting the lack of thread reliefs .. that said I'll look further before I comment more.

rather than myself posting this on ARFCOM .. why don't you address this personally over there? I mean I know AAC is banned from the website but surely you aren't also??

[rsilvers]

Yes, I tried to register about a week ago and they said:


We regret to inform you that your new account, silencertalk, was rejected.

The following reason was noted with the account for reference:

former user account suspension unresolved :: 82

If you wish to use this account or email address, please reply to this message
and a senior staff member will get back to you. We are aware that mistakes happen
and will do everything in our power to address any issues and correct them.

We apologize for any inconvenience.

www.ar15.com

[BWE Firearms]

I have more recently learned there is a time and place for each. Most barrel threading jobs I thread to the specs I can come up with. My biggest problem is a lot of times I am threading a barrel when the customer has not even got a suppressor yet and as we all no every manufacturer has their own specs, 22 LR cans being the worst. I cut a thread relief on almost all threading jobs. I understand why manufacturers don't do it on production guns. When I build one of my integrally suppressed rifles that will only ever have my suppressor on it I do the old trick of backing out the cross feed on the last thread to get a nice snug fit. I would never do this for a screw on can.

I am currently working on an integrally suppressed bolt action rifle and folding stock setup that should be a hit. Most of it will be designed to have it made by a machinist not a gunsmith. I will just work all my magic in the final fitting.

Where we seem to disagree is when one picks one over the other. You would probably say that if you want a barrel threaded, to use a gunsmith. I would want it done to a drawing, so I would use a machinist.

You are a gunsmith and a machinist, so you quality for both.

[rsilvers]

I see Green0 is calling this a shortcut. I approved this thread design, and I did not leave that area with additional material to save Remington money when cutting the threads. I did it that way because I believed it was the best way to make male threads on a barrel. He is speculating.

Moreover, a lot of people are speculating that Remington does not locate the bore center like a good custom gunsmith. Yes, these threads are held concentric to the bore, not the barrel OD.

[ds762]

I see Green0 is calling this a shortcut. I approved this thread design, and I did not leave that area with additional material to save Remington money when cutting the threads. I did it that way because I believed it was the best way to make male threads on a barrel.

SO .. you are admitting that its your opinion on the best way to make male threads.

Is this opinion based on your engineering degree, your machinists degree, your gunsmithing degree, or what? My point is this .. why is your opinion here on this matter valid?

[rsilvers]

Yes, it is an opinion/judgement call. One precedent is the M16 barrel, which has no thread relief and 0.100 from the shoulder to the first thread, and a 0.016 radius. The A2 flash suppressor has the relief in it. Green0/Griffen should know that to make an M16 silencer one needs a thread relief in the silencer of more than 0.100 in length. Yes, this is a 308 can, but the same logic applies - you cannot count on a barrel having a thread relief as it is far more common to put them in the female parts.

My point was that this rifle appears to be in spec and as designed and not defective, and that is based on being the person who selected the thread specs.

[BWE Firearms]

There are two ways to cut threads at the shoulder, With a relief cut and without a relief cut. Both are correct and cutting threads without a relief cut is actually the most popular. I personally cut threads with a relief cut most of the time just because that is how I was taught. There is a long standing debate that the relief cut weakens the barrel leading to the threaded section braking off. I personally don't believe this if the relief is cut properly, unless you are talking about a very wall.

Roberts opinion is valid because he is a good engineer with a lot of experience and trust me we don't see eye to eye on quite a few things. Engineers don't like gunsmiths, gunsmiths don't like engineers and machinist don,t like ether one of us. He like doing it one way I prefer the other and both of us are equally correct. It's all personal preference.

[Code_4]

Well...I am no engineer, gunsmith or machinist, but I did solve my problem...does anyone care? Sorry to distract from a man of science.

As for me I am just a bitter smoke eater that chugs through my days off playing with guns and having a few to many beers:eek: Occasionally an idiot prevails....this is my story...

Got out to shoot with the "modified" Paladin block. It worked great and SOUNDED ubber quiet now. I can now use IMG 4227 and H110. A2400 still did not work in this gun. H110 was definitely the quietest with 4227 being a close second. No need for hearing protection now.... The A1680 was the Turd of the bunch and was noticeably louder to all that listened. So that powder is going in the trash.

I did not get any groups shot, but I have good load data now. 9.5 H110 gets me 1040fps and 9.5 of 4227 gets me 1007fps.

Thanks....carry on:rolleyes:

[i8asquirrel]

Code 4 glad to hear ya got it worked out....your in for some fun now. Strang that 1680 didnt work for you, Its my favorite powder for my 300WTF but I also have a 16" barrel on them both..Have fun:nanabang:

[snipecatcher]

I shot my 10" barrel with the suppressor for the first time today. It is a fair bit louder than the 18" bolt action I had before it. One plus is that you can kill the action noise by switching the gas block to "off." It makes it a good bit quieter, but a shorter barrel is just going to be louder I suppose.

[ds762]

code 4 - glad you got things figured out



If Robert is such a fine engineer .. where did he get his credentials from? Surely an engineer has a degree in such matters.

I will defer Mr. Silvers opinions to that which I know he is more versed than myself. The next time I decide to produce a movie (more specifically Lethal Weapon 10) I'll ask him his professional opinion on the matter! :wink:

[rsilvers]

ds762 - the last guy I got in an internet debate with turned out to be a 20 year old computer salesman at Best Buy. While you are asking me about my degrees, why don't you fill us in on your gun-related résumé.

[BWE Firearms]

I don't know if Robert has a degree in engineering and I don't care. I know a hole lot of top engineers in the firearms industry who do not have degrees in engineering, and I know a lot of engineers with degrees that dont know shit.

[rsilvers]

Thanks. I design things, but am not an Engineer - and my degrees are both in Science. In the early days I made my own samples but now that I work at AAC I work with Engineers, Machinists, and Draftsman. Back when I designed my silencer I made the first ones (I have machine tools and weld, took classes for both at the local college to learn and read books). That silencer was recently adopted by the US Army for the XM-2010 sniper rifle.

http://www.google.com/patents?id=8nLyAAAAEBAJ&printsec=abstract&zoom=4#v=onepage&q&f=false

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XM2010_Enhanced_Sniper_Rifle

[ds762]

ds762 - the last guy I got in an internet debate with turned out to be a 20 year old computer salesman at Best Buy. While you are asking me about my degrees, why don't you fill us in on your gun-related résumé.

Well you've tried to give a half-ass answer to my questions so I guess I'll try to answer yours.

I'm currently a 32 year old construction worker and have been actively shooting since I was old enough to physically hold a rifle (age 4). I was an active IPSC shooter for over 6 yrs. I've been in the NFA realm for over 11 yrs.

I currently have a nice little collection of tax stamps.


Most importantly .. I don't pretend I'm anything I'm not.


ETA: This has gone off subject long enough, and for that I apologize to the OP.
I'm done with Silvers.
Its obvious to me that Silvers and I do not agree nor will we likely ever.
We will likely not be exchanging Christmas cards either.

[Alleycat]

http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc456/vanaustin87/Dramacat.jpg

[Alleycat]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/Rebbetzin/2010/2010%20Goats/51710Boysbuttingheadsemail.jpg
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s149/Dreamkeeper0863/Assorted%20Animals/14.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab71/mariacaliban/animals/stagfight.jpg
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r63/newby_04/Rico%20Rakastaa%20and%20Ramone/Rakastaasnewjoeys006.jpg
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/analadybug/Spring%20Break%202007/ap12040.jpg


:grin:

[Titleiiredneck]

Well...I am no engineer, gunsmith or machinist, but I did solve my problem...does anyone care? Sorry to distract from a man of science.

As for me I am just a bitter smoke eater that chugs through my days off playing with guns and having a few to many beers:eek: Occasionally an idiot prevails....this is my story...

Got out to shoot with the "modified" Paladin block. It worked great and SOUNDED ubber quiet now. I can now use IMG 4227 and H110. A2400 still did not work in this gun. H110 was definitely the quietest with 4227 being a close second. No need for hearing protection now.... The A1680 was the Turd of the bunch and was noticeably louder to all that listened. So that powder is going in the trash.

I did not get any groups shot, but I have good load data now. 9.5 H110 gets me 1040fps and 9.5 of 4227 gets me 1007fps.

Thanks....carry on:rolleyes:

Glad you finally got it figured out!

[Titleiiredneck]

Yes, I tried to register about a week ago and they said:

So since AAC is banned, does that mean remington is also? What was the reason you were banned?

forgot to add

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k567/titleiiredneck/gunsandnfa/drama.jpg

[rsilvers]

The short answer is - AR15 is a business and charges dealers and manufactures to advertise their products. We were not advertisers, but gave advice and talked about our products. That harms their business model and upsets the companies that do pay for ads on their site.

Selling ads tends to have this effect on forums - causes some awkward situations - because it makes a forum have to tell some people but not others to limit what they can say. That is why on silencertalk I just have google ads - to avoid having to tell people in the industry they cannot post a video or something about their gun because it is promoting their product.

There is a thread on it here:

http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=126&t=4658

[Titleiiredneck]

The short answer is - AR15 is a business and charges dealers and manufactures to advertise their products. We were not advertisers, but gave advice and talked about our products. That harms their business model and upsets the companies that do pay for ads on their site.

Selling ads tends to have this effect on forums - causes some awkward situations - because it makes a forum have to tell some people but not others to limit what they can say. That is why on silencertalk I just have google ads - to avoid having to tell people in the industry they cannot post a video or something about their gun because it is promoting their product.

There is a thread on it here:

http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=126&t=4658

Oh I thouht it was over aac suing the user ian187 over on ar15.com or larue tactical's problem with aac at shotshow back in 07 I belive. Dont really care since I dont use/want aac or remington nor do I read silencertalk or silencertests for ovbious reasons.

[rsilvers]

Well, I lost track of the order of events, but I am pretty sure this was way before that.

Silencertalk has a pretty active 300 AAC BLACKOUT section:

http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=128