Removing a Rem 700 barrel

[Rikky Lee]

Guys

A little off topic but ...

I am trying to get my factory 700 barrel out of the 300 Win Mag but it will not shift. Seems my hobby smith and a gunsmith in town is having the same problem with the more modern Rem 700s.

The Interweb seems to suggest that Rem uses a thread locker that needs some heat to shift it and also removing the recoil lug helps a lot.

Any real world experience/advice on what works first time/best time?

[BWE Firearms]

First you need a good action wrench and barrel vice with properly fitting bushings that is securly mounted. Use some rosin on the barrel bushings. Tighten everything up and try to remove the barrel. If it doesn't move put a 4'-6' extension on the action wrench. If it still does not move use a propain tourch to ad some heat to the front of the action. If it still doesn't come off leave it alone because there is probably a chip in the threads. and if you take the barrel off you will just trash the threads in the action.

[Hoser]

Take a parting tool and make a cut on the barrel about 0.125 forward of the lug. Go about 0.250 deep.

You trash the barrel, but it comes off.

[Spook]

No shortage of good advice so far Rik:smile: They're smearing something red on them now. The last one I did took a hefty cheater bar and a propane torch on the barrel just past the receiver. Good luck
The rear entry action wrench that PTG makes is a nice tool to have if you plan on switching out barrels a lot. The scope doesnt have to be removed to de-barrel.

[Hoser]

Or, dump lots of Kroil in there and let it sit for a while.

[Rikky Lee]

All good advice guys (as always).

I've remove military barrels using the relieving cut method and was very surprised to see how effective it was every time. Seems a shame to do that to a modern gun but lawyer proofing is seeming to make everything hard.

[rsilvers]

They are hard to remove, but I have done it several times. I never cut the barrel.

You need to lock the barrel in a barrel vise - use Rosin to grip.

Spray threads with Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster.

Use a real action wrench.

Use cheater bar.

They are 150 ft-lbs of torque.

I put the barrels back on with anti sieze and 100 ft-lbs.

[LouBoyd]

I've never failed to remove a 700 barrel without damage to the action or the barrel. (since using these methods).
I have a set of these:
http://media.midwayusa.com/ProductImages/Large/710783.jpg
and
http://media.midwayusa.com/ProductImages/Large/226100.jpg

Search Action wrench and action vise at http://www.midwayusa.com

I start by putting some "Liquid Wrench" penetrating oil into the front action screw hole and the front scope holes a couple of days before attempting the removal. Then try with the action wrench. I clamp the barrel either with the wood blocks in the action vise above or use a small hydraulic press with lead blocks. Either way I use a little rosin (as used in weight lifting) on the wood or lead blocks. It takes a fare amount of clamping force to prevent the barrel from slipping. Harder materials (aluminum or steel) clamps will mar the barrel. Always clamp the barrel at it's largest diameter, or as close as you can.

My body weight on the handle gives about 300 ft-lbs torque and usually does the job, can get 400+ with a short pipe as a cheater bar. I never hammer on it. If it's particularly stubborn I heat the action by pouring boiling water on it (limits to 212F which won't hurt the action's heat treatment) while pouring ice water on the barrel to shrink it. I've never had one fail to come off with that treatment and it does no harm to the barrel or action. A propane torch can ruin the heat treatment if you get carried away and always damages the finishes. Water conducts heat to the metal quicker than an open flame.

[Rikky Lee]

Guys

Postscript is that we got the barrel out of the Rem PSS. A combination of heat and removing the recoil lug in the lathe.

The significant issue with this model was the barrel was rusted in. No sign of locitite in the lugs - just rust. A friend sent me a photo of the same model with the same coating and the same rust. A by-product of the coating process?

[BWE Firearms]

Heat is a wonderful thing. It sure helps in removing rusted barrels.

[rsilvers]

I use this:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=26568/Product/REMINGTON_700_ACTION_WRENCH

Seems a lot better than clamping the outside of the action. Also you don't need to remove scope rails.

[sha-ul]

Heat is a wonderful thing. It sure helps in removing rusted barrels.

When I used to work on turbochargers on a regular basis, I often referred to the technique as "thermal persuasion":grin: