where to start with the 300W

[sha-ul]

I have had an interest in the 300W/fireball for a while, and I am trying to gather the necessaries to load& shoot this cartridge.
I have a savage 110 in 223, with a bbl on order from Shilen 17" 1:8 twist varmint profile with the end threaded for 5/8 24

[TCCrewchief76]

Well, I would say the place to start would be in the posts themselves. Another good way of finding what you want to learn about is to use the search function. Say you want a good load for 220 SMK's. I would just put 220 in the search function and see what happens. You could even enter the powders you want to use and get both sub and supersonic load data in the results. Good luck in your travels; the greatest journey begins with a single step!

Respectfully,

Kevin

[sha-ul]

the bad part was, just days after I called Shilen to order the bbl, this site crashed for the month long blackout:eek:



eta:
I was chasing down some links& came up with this...http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?p=857530#post857530

it is a forum for cast lead boolits as they call them, this look like a good candidate for the 300, but I'm not quite sure where to go with it

[Rikky Lee]

Start with heavy bullets like the 220 and 240 Matchking. Work from there.

[TCCrewchief76]

the bad part was, just days after I called Shilen to order the bbl, this site crashed for the month long blackout:eek:



eta:
I was chasing down some links& came up with this...http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?p=857530#post857530

it is a forum for cast lead boolits as they call them, this look like a good candidate for the 300, but I'm not quite sure where to go with it

I'm a member there. My screenname there is RVPilot76. Good site with lots of experience to draw upon.

Kevin

[oregonshooter]

Ditto on casingboolits, I started casting last year and there is no better source of information out there. Many of them have been doing it 20-30+ years.

1:8 will leave you in the 200gr+ arena. From what I've read, 240 is the easiest to develope subsonic for.

ANOTHER great resource is: http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm

[sha-ul]

Good news folks!! I got my barrel from Shilen this week, I have the 3 die Redding set on order form Midway& I have the Redding file trim die on hand now.

I have 2 rock chucker presses available to mount up, A Rcbs case trimmer to fine tune with, the Hornady case annealing kit, a Forster hand outside neck turner, and some once fired PMC bronze cases.

I still need to mount& headspace the Barrel on my Savage, but as you know that goes quick on a 110.

What is the proper way to use a file trim die?
I figured I could set the trim die a bit long, form& final trim with the piloted trimmer.

Where to next? I still need to pick up primer, powder& bullets, and look for a fairly forgiving load.

[Titleiiredneck]

Contact hoser on here for brass, great stuff, reloading info here http://listmequick.com/300/Sierra300whisper.pdf I would suggest a decent scope and a 20moa base also any cheap 20moa base will work.

[sha-ul]

Why do you suggest the 20 moa base?

[love2shoot]

sub-sonics have a LOT of drop.....

[Titleiiredneck]

it allows 20 more moa to your scope adjustment, it wil allow you to get out to 400+yds with subsonics, otherwise you will never hold your zero out that far.

[sha-ul]

sub-sonics have a LOT of drop.....

are there any drop charts for these subsonic loads?

[Hoser]

http://www.jbmballistics.com/ballistics/calculators/calculators.shtml

[sha-ul]

Any suggestions on what would be a good grain weight bullet to start with?
same with powder, some seem to be a little more forgiving than others

[buffetdestroyer]

Any suggestions on what would be a good grain weight bullet to start with?
same with powder, some seem to be a little more forgiving than others

I started with Alliant 2400, but I like Vihtavuori N110 now. It seems to be more consistent for me, but I am also shooting out of a 10.5" autoloader. N110 is extruded and seems more resistant to external conditions to maintain consistent velocity.

Using a 220 Grain SMK, Hoser's Lake City Brass, and CCI 400 Primer I use the following for subs:

8.1 Grains of VV N110

8.5 Grains of 2400

These may run fast or slow in yours so use them as a starting point and check to make sure they exit the barrel.
________
Vaporizers (http://vaporizers.tv/)

[Titleiiredneck]

I have had good luck with lc brass federal gmm primers hodgon110 and 220/240 smk's with my bolt gun. Been wanting to try some 208 amax but cant find them.

Also egw makes a decent 20moa mount for around 30 bux or so

[LouBoyd]

it allows 20 more moa to your scope adjustment, it wil allow you to get out to 400+yds with subsonics, otherwise you will never hold your zero out that far.

It will allow 20 >more< MOA vertical on your scope. But how far that will take you depends on the particular scope. The base just offsets whatever the range adjustment a given scope already has. Some scopes may only have 30 moa or less total vertical adjustment raange. With a scope like that a 20 MOA base might be too much to let you zero at short range. A Leupold 16x40 Mk 4 is an extreme example of a scope with 140 moa of vertical adjustment. it could use a base with 60 moa of wedge and allow you to shoot with a full two degrees of barrel inclination over the line of sight. That's about what's needed for high BC medium velocity rounds, like trying to shoot a 50 BMG using VLD bullets to 2500+ yards, or a subsonic at 1000 yards.

Some scopes have reticles designed so the "zero" aiming point is offset vertically. The Horus Falcon with it's H37 reticle is designed to use a 20 MOA wedged base just to zero it at short range.

Before you rush out and buy a wedge base do the math to find out what you want and need. Start by determining the trajectory of the bullet/cartridge/rifle/atmosphere you'll be using. Then decide what the maximum useful range that rifle will yield. That range may be limited by velocity dispersion (typical for subsonics), by wind deflection (typical for low BC bullets), by bullet stability (typical for supersonics) , or just because you don't want to miss (typical for hunting). Then pick a scope which can cover the range of elevation angle you'll need, and only then pick a wedged base if it's needed. Leave some room at both ends of the scope's elevation adjustment range. Most ballistics programs will do the math but you have to keep in mind what a wedged base does for the situation. Drawing a sketch may help.