View Full Version : New to whisper...need a hand with new load
buggsz24
10-28-2009, 04:45 PM
I've got a whole bunch of .223 brass that I would like to use, can someone tell me what is the best way to make the brass. I've seen a few different methods and it appears that trimming down .223 and then expanding to .30 appears to be the best way.
If that is the case does anyone have part numbers for the dies required from start to finish ?
Thanks
Spook
10-28-2009, 05:05 PM
run the 223 brass into the 30 whisper die and trim to length.
buggsz24
10-28-2009, 11:45 PM
Any suggestion as to which die set is the best?
kdiver58
10-29-2009, 02:09 AM
I trim mine first and use the redding dies.
strobes
10-29-2009, 02:22 PM
Fire form and trim to 1.355".
I was speaking with redding support yesterday and the guy says to plug the case with cream of wheat when fire form instead of a bullet?!
snipecatcher
10-29-2009, 08:15 PM
I use Redding dies. I remove the decapping pin assembly, then run a full length .223 round through the die. At this point you will have a .223 round with 2 shoulders. Next I trim using the harbor freight super extra cool micro-cutting wheel. Next all that is needed is final trimming and deburring. Once your cases have been deburred, put the decapping assembly back in the die and run your cases through it once more. I've been fire-forming with full power loads. I screwed on my barrel so that the unformed cartridges fit pretty tight. It may not be the right way, but it's worked ok for me. My current batch is on its 5th reload. If you haven't figured out a good way to trim the brass yet, I recommend one of these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42307
Good luck.
-Dan
Pnutz
11-02-2009, 01:16 PM
I have found that some brass is thicker than others and will cause feeding problems due to neck thickness in your chamber. LC brass seems to work the best for mine. I went thru and sorted out all the LC .223 brass.
Using my Lee Universal De-capper die I de-capped them all.
Then simply lubed them up and ran them thru my Dillon RT1200 Trimmer using a CH4d 300 fireball Trim Die mounted on a single stage press with a Redding .223 shell plate extender.
You go from .223 to a load ready 300/221 case in just one press stroke.
Add primer, Powder and Bullet. Seat using the Redding 300/221 die set.
amafrank
11-03-2009, 01:15 PM
Just to add to what the others have said...not too complicated to make this brass. Lake city works well and so does winchester commercial, federal and malaysian military. I've had problems with radway green and south african military due to thick brass that needs to be neck turned.
I use the CH4D trim die in one press and run a lubed case into it, cut with a hacksaw, pop it out and into the size die than use the rotary trimmer for final length. I don't have an electric trimmer so using the rotary by hand for the full length would be tough. However you do it though the first time will take a bit more time than subsequent loading. I've had cases that were loaded 10 or 12 times with no cracking so the brass will make your efforts worthwhile by having long life. If you load it hot for supersonic loads it might not last as long but I've got brass fired in the SIG semi that has been loaded at least 5 times so still worth the effort.
Frank
strycnine
11-03-2009, 09:19 PM
I trim mine first and use the redding dies.
+1 I found doing it that way works best for me.:smile:
Howlin' Mad
11-07-2009, 11:08 PM
I use a technique similar to Frank, but I use the Redding trim die. I was considering using a hacksaw, but figured that would take forever, then it came to me..Sawzall. Chucked a hacksaw blade in it and went to town, then about 8-10 passes with a big mill file, all trimmed to length. I then deburr the case and run it through the sizer/decapper, done.
Just Call Me...G
11-08-2009, 01:39 AM
I saw on this forum a great way to do it and have processed 2200 rounds of .223/5.56 using a small pipe cutter and a small plastic clamp.
After that, I run the brass through my Redding sizing die, the die set I use is the #80432.
I find that if I cut the .223 brass at the neck, I don't have to use the .27 caliber expander button.
I just use the .30 cal expander button and I'm good to go.
I trim to length using the Lee .221 Fireball length gauge with a .223 shellholder and a cordless drill. The length gauge will "wobble" a bit so I have found that cutting off a small section of the straw on a sports drink bottle will serve as a .30 cal "sleeve".
After they are trimmed and still in the shellholder attached to the cordless drill, I chamfer and de-burr them.
I check my neck thickness and have trimmed the neck on my brass using the Hornady Neck Turning Tool.
Once I am done with all that I throw them in the tumbler with a little NuFinish and let'em "cook" for a few hours.
Pics of pipe cutter and the "evolution" from .223 - .300 Whisper included.
Keep The High Ground,
G
320pf
11-08-2009, 10:44 AM
I saw on this forum a great way to do it and have processed 2200 rounds of .223/5.56 using a small pipe cutter and a small plastic clamp.
G
I tried this method. It is PAINFULLY slow!. If you want to make LOTS of 300-221 FIreball brass there are three ways:
1.) A Dillon Super 1050 set up with a Dillon power trimmer and a CH-4D trim die.
2.) A single stage press set up Dillon Power trimmer Dillon power trimmer and a CH-4D trim die.
3.) A drill press and a Foster power trim head.
Method "3" is the least expensive method and is fairly quick. I typically trim and form about 1000+ rounds in about 3 hours.
I hope this helps
320pf
http://www.quarterbore.net/forums/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=401
http://www.quarterbore.net/forums/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=615
http://www.quarterbore.net/forums/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=614
Just Call Me...G
11-08-2009, 03:25 PM
Hi again,
PAINFULLY???...
All due respect, I think that 320pf and I would differ on what the definition of pain is...
I liked the pipe cutter/clamps method because of the ease of expense and the portability. I knocked out the 2200 rounds in a matter of a day, I took them with me to my living room...talked on the phone, watched TV, etc. The whole set-up cost me about $10 at my local Ace Hardware and it works just fine.
The methods he describes work fine I am sure...he's been in the .300 Whisper MUCH longer than I.
BTW, 320pf thanks for all the info you have posted here and on other sites that I have lurked in. Your info has been a great help to me.
Anyway, the reason I was going to re-post was to let "buggsz24" know which brass I have used and has worked:
Comm. Brass:
Winchester
R-P
FC...found that on some of these you may need to swage the primer pocket.
Mil-Surp (primer pockets will need swaging if once-fired) :
WCC
LC
If I had not inherited the 5 gal. bucket-o'-brass and were starting with fresh, new brass...I'd say buy Winchester .223, hands down. I have found that the Winchester .223 brass gives VERY uniform results when forming to .300 Whisper, especially in the neck thickness realm.
As it stands, I have 2200 pieces of brass...some I have already loaded and are ready for shooting (next weekend, fingers crossed). I have more brass than some, less than others...to me this is a bit of a Zen thing and for my pleasure and amusement, not a competition. As more brass becomes available to me, I will make more...especially any FC brass as they tend to skimp and are usually shorter, I don't care to reload the FC brass for my .223 needs and will allocate them for my .300 Whisper needs.
My $0.02, your mileage may vary...
G
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