Need to purchase everything for reloading...

[too_many_hobbies]

Okay, like I have said before, one thing leads to another...

I have no experience with reloading. I want to purchase all the equipment, supplies, and references now so I can learn the techniques while my 300 Whisper is being built. I like to buy quality tools and will spend more (within reason) to get quality if it is justified. The only research I have done so far is to read through the descriptions of the reloading supplies in the Midway catalog I just received. What is the best "bang for the buck" in presses, scales, case trimmers, etc...

I use my grass airstrip behind my house as a shooting range. I have a metal table that I built, leveled, and tied to the ground with screw in anchors to shoot from. I also have an adjustable shooting vise, moveable target out to 400 yards, chronograph, and exterior ballistics software on my laptop. I have considered reloading before, but have always found factory ammunition that patterns well in my weapons.

For this 300 Whisper project, I am mainly wanting to be able to vary the powder charge to get into the optimum subsonic window with my particular weapon.

Any and all advice will be appreciated...

[Quarterbore]

I would suggest taking a serious look at the RCBS starter kit:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=133068

It includes just about everything you need to get started. Just add dies, shell holder and your trypical reloading componets and you would be set to go... The Manual is also an excellent tutorial that teaches you everything you need to know...

I have one of these kits and I have had it for about 15-years now... I have upgraded a few tools over the years but all of the tools work fine and I still have everything that came with the original kit.

[too_many_hobbies]

I would suggest taking a serious look at the RCBS starter kit:

I will check that out...

I just got off the phone with a friend that reloads who is going to demonstrate his equipment to me. He was trying to explain to me how his 4-stage press works.

I don't know if there is a source for the preformed brass or not, but I would like to start out by buying the preformed brass and just playing with powder charges.

[ShuckersFan]

There are lots of options. You can get started with a Lee Anniversary set for $70. I started with this one:
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=646599
It's a little sturdier then the one QB suggested and it's on sale right now so it's just as cheap. You need to be very careful, it's highly addictive. I started with a the single stage RockChucker kit. Now I've got it, a turret press, 2 progressive presses, and 2 shotgun presses. Started with a six foot long bench and had to make another to go with it. Keith Davis sells reformed brass on this site. If you plan on reforming brass, you need a real solid press to do it like the one in the link I posted or the one QB did. One of the real cheap ones won't stand up to it very well.

[jjmcrowell]

Redding Dies....These work fine for me....
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=655379

Of course you will need a shell holder....maybe two of these if you use a hand priming tool.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=426142

Hand priming tool...so you can sit in front of the TV with the family, prime cases and not piss off the wife by "hiding in the basement"
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=329291

I started with one of RCBS starter kits and still use it. With 300 whisper I don't load a high volume of cases, so a single stage press works for me. The RCBS press has a ability to prime cases, however find it kinda slow.

A couple of years ago I went and got a digital scale that attaches to a powder dispenser, which is kinda nice. Just type in how much powder and hit the "dispense" button and it will put a powder charge right into the scale. It beats trying to adjust the conventional mechanical dispensers, each time you change a load.

[prebancolt]

Before you buy anything, look at the Dillon RL550B. I have one and I love it! It is a progressive press. It's a little more expensive that the other items that were listed but I guarantee YOU WILL NOT REGRET GETTING THE DILLON. I tried single stage, but that doesn't work too well for any kind of quantity shooting. The Dillon is SIMPLE. They rarely have problems and if they do or you just need assistance, customer service is great.

Unless you are on a really tight budget, get a Dillon.

J

[too_many_hobbies]

Redding Dies....These work fine for me....
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=655379

You apparently use the same Reddding dies in the above link for 300 Whisper and 300 Fireball. Is there not enough difference in 300 Whisper and 300 Fireball to warrant a different die set? Will the ammunition for one function in the other?

[too_many_hobbies]

Before you buy anything, look at the Dillon RL550B.

My friend that is helping me get started in reloading has a pre-RL550B Dillon that is more than 10 years old but still going strong. Even though the main motivation for buying this equipment is for this one weapon, I expect to start playing with my other calibers. As someone else mentioned, this may get addicting.:eek:

[too_many_hobbies]

Keith Davis sells reformed brass on this site.

Right now I have a case of fear of the unknown. The only part that scares me about this process is reforming the brass. I am going to contact Mr. Davis and see if he still has brass available.

[jjmcrowell]

You apparently use the same Reddding dies in the above link for 300 Whisper and 300 Fireball. Is there not enough difference in 300 Whisper and 300 Fireball to warrant a different die set? Will the ammunition for one function in the other?


As far as I know, 300/221 and 300 Fireball are exactly the same.... which is virtually 300 whisper. I think there maybe a some neck thickness difference between 300 whisper and 300 fireball, just from the way SSK uses 221 fireball brass to form. I am no expert, by any means so maybe someone else will chim in.

I use 223 cases in the redding die and have no trouble.

[too_many_hobbies]

I ordered a Dillon RL550B, Redding Die Set 80432, and a whole bunch of other items that my wife refers to as "more junk :rolleyes:". One of my friends gave me a metal table on which to mount everything. I am in the process of painting the table Dillon Blue:wink: . My brother-in-law gave me an electronic scale that measures to the .001 gram, .015 grain. I will be ordering preformed brass from Keith_Davis.

Do I need the following Stoney Point Chamber-All OAL Guage?
http://www.outdoorsuperstore.com/product.asp?manufacturer=STONEY+POINT&model=CHAMBER%2DALL+OAL+GAUGE

Will the special .223 cases that you order separately for the Chamber-ALL work for this application? Do I need the Stoney Point bullet comparitor?

I need to order some bullets. I called Sierra and got the overall length of their HPBT Match King 220 grain as 1.485" and the 240 grain as 1.595". My 1 to 8 twist barrel will supposedly stabilize even the 240 grain according to this link:
http://www.mountainmolds.com/helpGreenhill.htm

Any comments regarding the 220 vs. 240 grain Sierra Match Kings? It seems most are using the 220 grain. Does the 240 grain bring about reloading, magazine, or accuracy problems that I am not aware of?

Please continue to help me out here, I don't want to end up with $1000 worth of "more junk" that I never get pieced together to use (don't want to give my wife an excuse to make another cutting comment:tongue: ).

[prebancolt]

I ordered a Dillon RL550B, Redding Die Set 80432, and a whole bunch of other items that my wife refers to as "more junk :rolleyes:". One of my friends gave me a metal table on which to mount everything. I am in the process of painting the table Dillon Blue:wink: . My brother-in-law gave me an electronic scale that measures to the .001 gram, .015 grain. I will be ordering preformed brass from Keith_Davis.

"You have chosen wisely." I haven't ordered any brass from Keith_Davis, but I hear it is top notch. I have, however tried to make my own brass, and it's almost not worth the time. If I need any more brass, I'll order mine from Keith.

Do I need the following Stoney Point Chamber-All OAL Guage?
http://www.outdoorsuperstore.com/product.asp?manufacturer=STONEY+POINT&model=CHAMBER%2DALL+OAL+GAUGE

I just measure the OAL of the finished rounds. Another way is to check them in a mag that you will be using. This is one measurement that limits the OAL of the round.

Will the special .223 cases that you order separately for the Chamber-ALL work for this application? Do I need the Stoney Point bullet comparitor?

I need to order some bullets. I called Sierra and got the overall length of their HPBT Match King 220 grain as 1.485" and the 240 grain as 1.595". My 1 to 8 twist barrel will supposedly stabilize even the 240 grain according to this link:
http://www.mountainmolds.com/helpGreenhill.htm

Any comments regarding the 220 vs. 240 grain Sierra Match Kings? It seems most are using the 220 grain. Does the 240 grain bring about reloading, magazine, or accuracy problems that I am not aware of?

One isn't any harder to load than the other. Someone speak up, but I think the 240's might be just a little harder to locate. I've seen a lot more 220 grain bullets on the shelf than I have 240 grain.

Please continue to help me out here, I don't want to end up with $1000 worth of "more junk" that I never get pieced together to use (don't want to give my wife an excuse to make another cutting comment:tongue: ).

If you really want to appreciate and REALLY use your new toy, go get the dies for 9mm, 40S&W, or 45acp. Your wife will be begging you to quit playing with that "junk" and come in the house. Ask me how I know.:grin:

J

[dflicker]

MidwayUSA has a limited supply in stock.

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=621591

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=557247

[too_many_hobbies]

Everything for reloading is scheduled for delivery tomorrow except for bullets, powder, and primers. I have been approaching this by researching one reloading step at a time and now I am researching powders and primers. I will be near a Sportsman's Warehouse tomorrow and would like to pick up some powder and primers so I can practice pulling the handle on my new press.

For powder, it appears that I need to be using Vihtavuori N110, IMR 4227, Hodgdon H110, or Accurate No. 9 or 1680. Please respond with what powder you use for subsonic 220 and/or 240 grain bullets.

I have read so much now that all the information is starting to run together. I am getting confused about what is recommended for .308 subsonic as opposed to 300 Fireball subsonic. I remember reading where someone recommended always using magnum rifle primers for .308 subsonics. What do you use for 300 Fireball? Please respond with actual part numbers, if you have that information handy, to help me locate the correct primers in the store.

As always, thanks in advance,

way_too_many_hobbies:smile:

[320pf]

too_many_hobbies

Go to this the following website and check out the subsonic data listed for Accurate Arms Powders.

http://www.accuratepowder.com/data/PerCaliber2Guide/Handgun/Standarddata/30Cal(7.62mm)/300%20Whisper%20page%2076.pdf

There are two other sources of reloading data. The most recent volumes of the Sierra and Hornady reloading manuals. I gave both Sierra and Hornaday a call and they send me the relative pages of their porspective reloading manuals.


Here are the loads that I have developed. I have shot all of the loads listed under "Not yet verified user loads" except load numbers 3299, 2973 and 2974. SPMORGAN on this site has developed loads 2973 and 2974.

http://reloadersnest.com/frontpage.asp?CaliberID=135

Another good source 300-221 fireball a.k.a 300 whisper (r) loads can be found in the reloading manuals under the 357 magnum, expeciallly the loads listed for the TC or rifles. The powder capacity for the 357 magnum is very similar to the 300-221 fireball except that the 300-221 fireball can run at significantly higher pressures 52000 verus 45000 cup, respectively. But I would only stick to powders with similar burn rates as W296, H110, IMR4227, H4227, RE7, AA#9, 2400, V110, and AA1680 (sorry if I left someone favorite powder out... if so jump in here.... thank you)


Good luck and have fun


320pf

[too_many_hobbies]

I ended up with an AR-15 custom upper with Olympic Arms 16" barrel in 1 to 8 twist that I should have in a couple of weeks. As soon as I measure for correct OAL, I am going to load my subsonic test rounds with 9.2 grains of H110, Federal 205 primers, and Sierra 240 grain Match Kings.

Now, to plan for the next step...

I plan to test fire a few rounds before placing the sound suppressor on the barrel, checking for a stuck bullet each shot. How do I check for stabilization of the 240 grain bullet? Should I perform a specific test before placing the sound suppressor on the barrel to avoid a baffle strike?

[Artful]

I ended up with an AR-15 custom upper with Olympic Arms 16" barrel in 1 to 8 twist that I should have in a couple of weeks. As soon as I measure for correct OAL, I am going to load my subsonic test rounds with 9.2 grains of H110, Federal 205 primers, and Sierra 240 grain Match Kings.

Now, to plan for the next step...

I plan to test fire a few rounds before placing the sound suppressor on the barrel, checking for a stuck bullet each shot. How do I check for stabilization of the 240 grain bullet? Should I perform a specific test before placing the sound suppressor on the barrel to avoid a baffle strike?

Actually you'll want to start with more than a specific load for several reasons, starting above the speed of sound and lowering the powder charge until you get to about 1000 fps (under the speed of sound) is safest so that you don't stick a bullet in the barrel -

to test for stability of the bullet put a cardboard box up close 10 -15 feet and at 100 yards - shooting thru them should leave nice round holes in the cardboard - if you have oblong holes your bullet is tipping and unstable.

After your bullet is verified stable then mount your suppressor and look thru the barrel to make sure you don't see any part of the can in the way of the barrel and do the look in the other direction. (if you look thru the can and center the chamber end in the center of the suppressor exit hole, it should all be concentric - circles within circles).

[Mousehouse]

I didn't read all of this topic so I hope I don't go over something that has already been discussed.

Since you are new to reloading I would get a single stage press and all of the accessories to go with it. Once you get use to loading I would then step up to the progressive loaders if you so desire. I use a progressive when I load my 9mm but still use my single stage press for everything else.

I like to do my loading in stages. I clean the brass first, then size and deprime. Once that is done I like to clean them again. When I get time to get back to the loading bench I prime everything I have ready. Then I sort the brass and store them in boxes or plastic bins with lids. When I get ready to load all I have to do is set up the powder measure with whatever powder I want to use and start loading. I like doing it this way and usually do all of my loading during the winter months. Unless I have a special round I am working on.

[gary0529]

If you want 300 Whisper brass already formed go here-http://www.coyoteguns.com/once_fire_brass.htm.
Great quality and fair pricing and fast delivery.
I also form my own from 223 brass and aside from losing around 15% due to neck splitting they work fine. This may be a bit more than a really raw newbie may wish to do as you may have to check neck wall thickness and trim for lenght-things a really inexperienced newcomer may not yet have the skill sets to do.
Hope it helps and enjoy the new hobby.

Gary